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<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nKnowing full well I\u2019m not exactly athletic, I had originally planned a gentle first day\u2014this is the Dojo of Awakening Faith after all, the stage where one plants the seed of resolve. So, I figured visiting just three temples would be enough for today. To my surprise, I completed that route before noon. Ending the day so early felt like cheating, so I pushed on into the hills and wrapped up the day at Temple No. 5, Jiz\u014d-ji. That extra effort left me feeling fulfilled. Back at the inn, I threw my clothes into the wash and\u2014before I knew it\u2014nodded off. Turns out, walking really is hard work!<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 2: Grateful for the Ride!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Anraku-ji (No. 6) to J\u016braku-ji (No. 7)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 11.4 km
\n\ud83d\ude97: 1.3 km<\/p>\n
The day began under a steady drizzle. While walking toward Anraku-ji, a small truck pulled over in front of me. The driver\u2014an older man\u2014poked his head out and asked if I\u2019d like a ride. And just like that, I was on the receiving end of a stranger\u2019s kindness. The warmth and generosity of the people in Shikoku continues to amaze me.<\/p>\n
Tonight, I\u2019m staying at the temple lodging (shukub\u014d) of J\u016braku-ji. These lodgings are somewhat similar to our temple guesthouses, though out of the 88 temples on the pilgrimage, only a dozen or so offer accommodations to the general public\u2014the rest are reserved for families conducting memorial services. The K\u014dmy\u014d Hall at J\u016braku-ji feels more like a luxury hotel, complete with a hearty dinner and the rare chance to enjoy the temple grounds under moonlight. Still, if I had to choose, I\u2019d personally recommend staying at Anraku-ji\u2019s shukub\u014d. It offers a unique experience with an on-site hot spring and the opportunity to participate in evening prayers. It\u2019s something truly special.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 3: Before Climbing the 333 Steps, Leave Your Luggage Behind!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Kumadani-ji (No. 8) to Kirihata-ji (No. 10)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 17.3 km<\/p>\n
Today\u2019s challenge: conquering the 333 stone steps leading up to Kirihata-ji, Temple No. 10. Carrying all your belongings up that slope would be seriously tough. Thankfully, some kind souls living nearby have set up racks in front of their homes, allowing pilgrims to leave their bags temporarily. You can also ask local shops if they\u2019re willing to hold your luggage\u2014it\u2019s all part of the community spirit along the route.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nOne of today\u2019s most breathtaking scenes was the Ni\u014d Gate of Kumadani-ji, Temple No. 8. It\u2019s the largest gate among all 88 temples, and today it was framed by a full bloom of cherry blossoms\u2014absolutely magical. If you ask me when the best time to walk the pilgrimage is, I\u2019d say right now\u2014in early April. The weather is cool and comfortable, and the cherry blossoms in full bloom are the perfect companions on the road.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 4: After Seven Hours, Finally Reached the Hardest Part of the Pilgrimage!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Fujiidera (No. 11) to Shosan-ji (No. 12)
\n\ud83d\ude97: 4.3 km
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 17.8 km<\/p>\n
The Shikoku Pilgrimage has five major \u201cdifficult spots\u201d \u2014 treacherous areas that are challenging to reach. Due to Tokushima\u2019s rugged terrain, three of these are located here. Among them, Shosan-ji (Temple No. 12), which requires crossing two mountain ridges and climbing steep slopes, is widely known as the toughest challenge on the entire pilgrimage. As someone who hasn\u2019t climbed many mountains over the past year, I managed to complete the route in seven hours. But my knees and ankles are extremely sore, and my whole body feels like it\u2019s been run over by a truck.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nThere\u2019s a saying: \u201cOnce you\u2019ve conquered Shosan-ji, nothing in life is impossible.\u201d\nI really hope that\u2019s true\u2026<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 5: Giving My Legs a Confidence Boost<\/h6>\n
Temple Visited: Dainichi-ji (No. 13)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 22.6 km<\/p>\n
The day after climbing Shosan-ji, I descended 22 kilometers along paved roads. My knees felt weak, and my whole body was sore. So, I spent the day giving my legs some motivational pep talks:
\n\u201cYesterday you conquered mountain paths; walking on roads today should be no problem, right?\u201d
\n\u201cI heard the inn\u2019s dinner is amazing\u2014let\u2019s get there soon!\u201d
\nAfter a mix of encouragement and gentle persuasion, I finally made it to Temple No. 13, Dainichi-ji.<\/p>\n
The temple\u2019s name is linked to Dainichi Nyorai, the founder of Esoteric Buddhism, who shares a deep connection with K\u016bkai. While studying in China, K\u016bkai visited K\u016bkai\u2019s master, the seventh patriarch of Shingon Buddhism. During a secret ritual, K\u016bkai was blindfolded, holding incense and flowers, and led before a mandala filled with hundreds of Buddha statues. Twice, his thrown flower landed on Dainichi Nyorai, prompting the master to pass the esoteric teachings to the young monk from afar. K\u016bkai received initiation, was given the name \u201cHenj\u014d Kong\u014d\u201d (Universal Illuminator Vajra), and became the eighth patriarch.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 6: What Does \u201cD\u014dgy\u014d Ninin\u201d Mean?<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: J\u014draku-ji (No. 14) to Ido-ji (No. 17)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 9.6 km
\n\ud83d\ude8c: 6.6 km<\/p>\n
Today, it\u2019s no longer just K\u016bkai and me\u2014we have a third companion: a friend who joined me on the journey! So technically, we\u2019re now \u201cthree walking together,\u201d but this brings up the deeply symbolic phrase \u201cD\u014dgy\u014d Ninin\u201d\u2014\u201ctwo traveling together.\u201d\nMany believe that although K\u016bkai passed away over 1,200 years ago, his spiritual presence (his hosshin, or Dharma body) still illuminates the universe. For pilgrims walking the Shikoku route, it\u2019s said that K\u016bkai walks beside them every step of the way. You may be physically traveling alone, but with K\u016bkai always by your side, \u201cD\u014dgy\u014d Ninin\u201d becomes a powerful reminder: even in hardship, you\u2019re never truly alone\u2014he is there to guide and protect you.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 7: Two Tough Temples, Two Very Different Worlds<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Onzan-ji (No. 18) to Tairy\u016b-ji (No. 21)
\n\ud83d\ude97: 46.4 km
\n\ud83d\udea0: Round-Trip to Tairy\u016b-ji<\/p>\n
The path to Kakurin-ji is lined with dense forest, instantly reminding me of the rugged climb to Shosan-ji. Though the two temples are geographically close and both considered \u201cdifficult spots,\u201d the atmosphere couldn\u2019t be more different. Kakurin-ji feels like a secluded sage\u2014an ancient wooden temple, weathered and faded by time, that evokes a sense of reverence and awe. Tairy\u016b-ji, on the other hand, is more of a regional king.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nAccessible by cable car and connected to nearby tourist attractions, it offers lucky charms for just about anything\u2014bad backs, sore knees, financial luck, exam success\u2014you name it. It makes me wonder: should a place of spiritual training be removed from the world, or fully immersed in it?
\nMaybe there\u2019s no single right answer.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 8: Tokushima\u2014Complete!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: By\u014dd\u014d-ji (No. 22) to Yaku\u014d-ji (No. 23)
\n\ud83d\ude97: 43 km<\/p>\n
Our three-day, two-night car pilgrimage has come to an end. Honestly, not having to walk felt like being in heaven! We started the day at By\u014dd\u014d-ji and, by chance, arrived just as a senior monk was chanting sutras in the main hall\u2014a rare and powerful moment. Out of all 23 temples I\u2019ve visited in Tokushima, this was the only time I experienced that.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nFinally, we reached Yaku\u014d-ji, the last temple in Tokushima and the final stop of the H\u014dshin D\u014dj\u014d\u2014the \u201cPlace of Awakening the Heart.\u201d Even from the foot of the hill, the temple\u2019s grand scale was overwhelming. Famous for warding off bad luck, Yaku\u014d-ji draws a constant stream of visitors. As the deep sound of the misfortune-cleansing bell rang out, we quietly marked the end of our journey through Tokushima's sacred path.<\/p>\n