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<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 10: \u201cOsettai\u201d \u2014 A Unique Cultural Feature of the Shikoku Pilgrimage<\/h6>\n
Temples visited: 0
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 25 km<\/p>\n
From Ikumi to Shiina, the communities were even more sparse than the day before. When I saw a ramen shop along the way, I stepped in without hesitation. It was a charming, old-school place \u2014 the kind with a few regulars sitting at the counter and the owner cooking in the open kitchen. The shop served only one type of ramen, with a range of optional toppings and side carbs. I ordered the simplest bowl. A moment later, the owner looked at me as he picked up some slices of meat and asked, \u201cOk?\u201d\n\u201cOk!\u201d I replied \u2014 perhaps he thought I was vegetarian and wanted to be sure. When he finished cooking three bowls, he served the others first. I noticed theirs only had vegetables, while mine was the only one with meat. And when it was time to pay, he only charged me for the basic ramen \u2014 no extra for the meat. That\u2019s when I realized: this was his osettai \u2014 a quiet gesture of hospitality.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nI kept walking for another two hours and eventually sat down at a small rest area. A construction truck pulled up nearby, and two workers began working on the roadside.\nOne of them greeted me warmly in Japanese. I quickly explained that I was from Taiwan and didn\u2019t speak the language. Smiling, he handed me a canned coffee and a fizzy drink, gesturing for me to drink and enjoy. Before leaving, he gave me a thumbs-up and wished me well. Maybe this stretch of the road existed just so I could meet people like them.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u201cOsettai\u201d is a Shikoku tradition where locals voluntarily offer help and hospitality to pilgrims. The forms it takes are diverse \u2014 bottled drinks, fruit, bento meals, words of encouragement, or even shelters and benches to rest. These selfless acts are seen as expressions of kindness, rooted in deep respect and reverence for K\u014db\u014d Daishi, the founder of the pilgrimage.<\/p>\n
\u3002Day 11: Finally Reaching the First Temple of the Dojo of Ascetic Training!<\/h6>\n
Temples visited: Hotsumisakiji (No. 24)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 15.3 km<\/p>\n
After walking for two and a half days, I finally arrived at Temple No. 24! Along the way, I passed a sea cave where K\u016bkai once trained. On the right is the Shinmeikutsu, the sacred cave used for spiritual practice; on the left is the Mikurodo, where he handled daily life such as eating and resting.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nFor the 19-year-old K\u016bkai, Muroto Cape and Murotozan My\u014dj\u014din Hotsumisakiji held deep significance. One day, while he was earnestly practicing the Gumonjih\u014d mantra of \u0100k\u0101\u015bagarbha Bodhisattva inside the cave, he suddenly heard a sound within. Then, a brilliant star descended, and the radiance of the Bodhisattva illuminated the cavern. Years later, after returning from his studies in Tang China, K\u016bkai came back to Muroto Cape, carved a statue of \u0100k\u0101\u015bagarbha, and established Hotsumisakiji Temple. The \u201cbright star\u201d that appeared that day became the inspiration for the temple\u2019s name \u2014 My\u014dj\u014din, meaning \u201cTemple of the Morning Star.\u201d<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 12: What Do Pilgrims Do at Night?<\/h6>\n
Temples visited: Shinsh\u014d-ji (No. 25) to Kong\u014dch\u014dji (No. 26)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 23.8 km<\/p>\n
Today at Temple No. 26, Kong\u014dch\u014dji, I ran into a fellow pilgrim I had walked with on the very first day \u2014 I was overjoyed! In the vast \u201csea of temples,\u201d such reunions are rare and precious for pilgrims. Even more coincidentally, we happened to be staying at the same guesthouse tonight. After dinner, he pulled out a Shikoku pilgrimage map and started diligently reviewing the route ahead. As we chatted, another man joined in \u2014 someone who had completed the full pilgrimage 25 times! The conversation quickly became lively and full of shared enthusiasm. Evenings for pilgrims are simple and grounded. After a good meal, they typically check the weather for the next day, plan upcoming accommodations, or reflect on the people and moments they\u2019ve encountered along the way.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 13: The Secret to Mitsubishi\u2019s Success<\/h6>\n
Temples visited: K\u014dnomineji (No. 27)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 22.2 km<\/p>\n
Officially, there are five \u201cnansho\u201d \u2014 difficult temples \u2014 on the Shikoku Pilgrimage, but many pilgrimage guides often include K\u014dnomineji, sitting at an elevation of around 400 meters, as an unofficial sixth due to its steep climb. This temple holds a special place in the business world. In the late 19th century, when Iwasaki Yatar\u014d founded Mitsubishi, his mother walked 20 kilometers round-trip each day for 21 days to pray sincerely at K\u014dnomineji for the success of her son\u2019s new venture.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nUnlike many other temples, K\u014dnomineji often draws a noticeable number of visitors dressed in business attire. With its strong spiritual ties to both K\u016bkai and the founding legend of Mitsubishi, the temple enjoys a steady stream of worshippers and vibrant devotion.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 14: The Generosity of K\u014dchi Locals Truly Surprised Me<\/h6>\n
Temple visited: Dainichiji (No. 28)
\n\ud83d\ude86: 32 km
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 4.5 km<\/p>\n
Japanese weather forecasts are impressively accurate \u2014 it rained heavily all day today. I decided to take the train to the next temple instead of walking. After all, adapting to change and staying flexible is its own form of spiritual practice. Since I arrived at the guesthouse earlier than expected after my temple visit, I went in to ask if I could drop off my luggage.<\/p>\n
\u201cDid you already visit the temple? Are you planning to go anywhere else afterward?\u201d
\n\u201cYes, I\u2019ve finished the temple visit. I was hoping to leave my luggage and grab something to eat nearby.\u201d
\n\u201cI need to deliver another guest\u2019s luggage to the city \u2014 want to come with me?\u201d
\n\u201cSure!\u201d<\/p>\n
Thanks to the wonders of modern translation apps, we communicated with ease \u2014 even chatting about travel and politics during the car ride. When she learned I hadn\u2019t planned any sightseeing, she brought me straight to the famous Hirome Market in K\u014dchi, and took me to the popular restaurant My\u014djinmaru. As I pulled out my wallet to pay for the charcoal-seared bonito set meal \u2014 assuming we\u2019d each pay our own \u2014 she flat-out refused and insisted on treating me. She even covered parking. I happened to catch a glimpse of the bill\u2026 and it was about a third of the guesthouse rate. The next morning, she prepared breakfast for me and personally delivered my luggage to my next accommodation.<\/p>\n
I\u2019ve never met a guesthouse host so generous \u2014 it was truly a first in my life. The warmth and kindness of the people in Shikoku, especially in K\u014dchi, left an unforgettable impression.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 15: Why Are There So Many \u201cKokubunji\u201d?<\/h6>\n
Temples visited: Tosa Kokubunji (No. 29) to Zenrakuji (No. 30)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 20.3 km<\/p>\n
If there\u2019s one thing all four pilgrimage \u201cd\u014dj\u014d\u201d regions have in common, it\u2019s this: they each include a Kokubunji temple. And not just in Shikoku \u2014 you can find Kokubunji temples all over Japan. The origin traces back to the 8th century, during the reign of Emperor Sh\u014dmu, a devout Buddhist. To pray for the peace and protection of the nation, he ordered the establishment of provincial temples (Kokubunji for monks, Kokubunniji for nuns) in all 68 provinces across Japan. The head temples of this system were T\u014ddaiji and Hokkeji in Nara.<\/p>\n
However, not every Kokubunji maintained its former grandeur. For instance, Awa Kokubunji (Temple No. 15), though once blessed by imperial decree, is now modest and small \u2014 you can walk through it in about 10 minutes, due to destruction from past wars and modest rebuilding. In contrast, the Tosa Kokubunji I visited today (No. 29) is much larger and even offers sutra copying and matcha tea experiences.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 16: How to Book a Room by Phone Without Speaking Japanese?<\/h6>\n
Temples visited: Chikurinji (No. 31) to Sekkeiji (No. 33)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 18.6 km
\n\ud83d\udee5\ufe0f: 700 m<\/p>\n
Today, I bumped into an American pilgrim I\u2019d previously had a great conversation with on the road. Like me, she doesn\u2019t speak Japanese, and she shared how challenging it can be to book accommodations \u2014 especially in rural Shikoku, where most guesthouses only accept reservations by phone. I shared with her a method that works surprisingly well, even without knowing Japanese: use technology to your advantage!<\/p>\n
First, use a reliable calling app. Since Skype has discontinued some of its services, I recommend trying Viber, a Japanese Rakuten Group app that supports international calls. I\u2019ve used it from Taiwan to Japan \u2014 the audio was clear and the delay was minimal.<\/p>\n
Second, prepare your script in Japanese. Use ChatGPT to translate a simple booking script with your name, country, date of stay, type of stay (room only or with meals), and ask about the price. Then, paste each line into Google Translate, and play the audio for the person on the other end.<\/p>\n
Finally, listen for: \u300c\u5927\u4e08\u592b\u3067\u3059\u300d (Daij\u014dbu desu). If you hear that, you're good! It means \u201cIt\u2019s okay\u201d or \u201cNo problem.\u201d Japanese hosts are very trustworthy \u2014 I used this method to book over 10 accommodations, and every single one honored the reservation without issue.<\/p>\n
\u3002Day 17: Break in Your Shoes Before You Go!<\/h6>\n
Temples visited: Tanemaji (No. 34) to Seiry\u016bji (No. 36)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffb\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 28.3 km<\/p>\n
Today\u2019s walk was one of the longer ones, with plenty of uphill and downhill sections, so I set out as soon as daylight broke at 6 a.m. After descending from Temple No. 35, Seiry\u016bji, I noticed something surprising \u2014 my steps felt lighter, like I was finally becoming one with my shoes. In the first days of walking with a full pack for 3\u20134 hours, I\u2019d always feel pain in my left heel from excessive friction, and a stiff right ankle that required me to twist and tiptoe at red lights just to feel some relief.\nBut today, I walked almost 7 hours before the discomfort began.<\/p>\n
\u201cI\u2019m wearing Salomons \u2014 the ones seasoned pilgrims swear by! So what went wrong?\u201d Of course, it wasn\u2019t the shoes \u2014 it was me. My friend warned me before the trip: \u201cYou have to break in your shoes first.\u201d I thought I\u2019d done enough by walking 5 km to the library and back. They felt fine, so I figured I was good to go. But once I started walking 10\u201320 km daily with a loaded backpack, it hit me hard. The first week was painful, and by the end of it, my right foot had swollen up badly. Now, on Day 17, I finally feel that comforting sense of \u201cman and shoe, united at last.\u201d So to anyone preparing for a pilgrimage: Break in your shoes \u2014 seriously.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 18: Fell in Love with \u201cKatsuo no Warayaki Tataki\u201d After Just One Bite<\/h6>\n
Temples visited: 0
\n\ud83d\ude87: 54 km<\/p>\n
Today was a rest day \u2014 I took the train to Kubokawa to recharge. I wanted to do something fun, but in the end, all I craved was a good meal and a trip to the supermarket. My unexpectedly modest desires actually surprised me. Since I was still in Kochi, I treated myself to a dish I fell in love with after the first bite: seared bonito grilled over straw. The rich aroma of the burning straw and the fatty bonito melded into a deep, savory flavor. Add a sprinkle of sea salt, crispy garlic slices, and a splash of lemon juice \u2014 and you have a taste that\u2019s simply divine.<\/p>\n
This Kochi specialty has quite a name: \u201cKatsuo no Warayaki Hanch\u014dzuri\u201d. It uses fattier cuts of bonito, seared quickly over a roaring straw flame. The technique removes any fishiness while sealing in the freshness and flavor. Now that my belly and heart are full, I feel ready to walk on with strength again tomorrow.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\u3002Day 19: Go Go Power Rangers<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Iwamoto-ji (No. 37)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f\u200d\u27a1\ufe0f: 28.6 km<\/p>\n
Iwamoto-ji stands out from other sacred sites on the pilgrimage \u2014 while most temples enshrine a single principal deity, this one has five: Fud\u014d My\u014d-\u014d (Acala), Kannon (Avalokite\u015bvara), Amida Nyorai (Amit\u0101bha), Yakushi Nyorai (Medicine Buddha), and Jiz\u014d Bosatsu (K\u1e63itigarbha). It\u2019s basically the Power Rangers of pilgrimage temples!<\/p>\n
During the Edo period (17th\u201319th centuries), this area was home to five separate shrines collectively known as the \u201cFive Shrines of Niida.\u201d However, when the Haibutsu Kishaku (anti-Buddhist movement) swept through Japan in the first year of the Meiji era, the deities from these shrines were relocated and enshrined together in what is now the main hall of Iwamoto-ji \u2014 forming its current lineup of five principal deities.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nInside the main hall is something that completely took my breath away: the \u201cCoffered Ceiling Paintings of the Inner Sanctuary\u201d (\u5929\u4e95\u753b). When the temple was renovated in 1978, a nationwide call was made for art submissions to decorate the ceiling. The result? A stunning collection of 575 individual panels depicting everything from seasonal flowers and birds to mandalas of human life \u2014 it\u2019s absolutely awe-inspiring!<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 20: A Tempting Dojo of Discipline<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: 0
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 34 km<\/p>\n
Today marks a new milestone in my life\u2014I've officially crossed the 30-kilometer mark on foot, spending a total of nine hours walking. Just two more temples to go before finishing the pilgrimage segment in Kochi. It\u2019s no wonder this area is nicknamed the \"Dojo of Discipline\"\u2014not because it's grueling like the mountainous terrain in Tokushima, but because it\u2019s full of tempting shortcuts. Unlike Tokushima, Kochi\u2019s routes often run alongside the coast, with frequent bus and train services. That convenience is exactly what makes it so tempting.<\/p>\n
The problem is, many of the temples here are incredibly far apart. The three most iconic stretches are:
\n1.Temple 23 (Yaku\u014d-ji) to Temple 24 (Hotsumisaki-ji): 77 km. I started from a hotel in Tokushima and walked 60 km of it.
\n2. Temple 36 (Sh\u014dry\u016b-ji) to Temple 37 (Iwamoto-ji): 54 km. I took the train for this part.
\n3. Temple 37 (Iwamoto-ji) to Temple 38 (Kong\u014dfuku-ji): 84 km. It took me three days on foot.<\/p>\n
As I walked along the highway, buses and trains would pass by every so often. If I happened to spot another pilgrim inside one of them, my mind would spiral into an inner monologue:
\n\u201cHe got there in just over an hour. Why am I spending nine hours walking?\u201d
\n\u201cWhy are you walking, anyway? You\u2019re not here to practice asceticism or pray for some divine favor. Taking the bus is totally fine!\u201d
\n\u201cYou really want to take the bus, don\u2019t you?\u201d\n\u201cOf course I do! I really want to get on that bus\u2014but I don\u2019t know why I never actually stop at the bus stops!\u201d
\nAfter a full day of this mental tug-of-war, I finally reached my destination. I told myself I\u2019d just take the bus tomorrow\u2014but when the time came, I ended up walking again.<\/p>\n
I\u2019ve thought about it a lot, and I still don\u2019t have a clear answer. But deep down, I feel there\u2019s something incredibly luxurious about stepping away from the rhythm of daily life to do something as inefficient as \u201cwalking\u201d or \u201cgetting lost.\u201d<\/p>\n
\u3002Day 21: The Southernmost Point of Shikoku<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Kong\u014dfuku-ji (No. 38)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 22.6 km
\n\ud83d\ude8c: 20 km<\/p>\n
After three full days of walking, I finally arrived at the southernmost tip of Shikoku\u2014Kong\u014dfuku-ji, perched above Cape Ashizuri. Just standing at the cape and taking in the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean made the entire journey worthwhile. The moment I stepped into the temple grounds, I heard a Japanese woman beside me exclaim, \u201cSugoi~ sugoi!\u201d\u2014\u201cAmazing!\u201d And I completely understood her spontaneous reaction. Among all the temples I\u2019ve visited so far, Kong\u014dfuku-ji boasts the most refined and majestic garden landscape.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nOver 1,200 years ago, the monk K\u016bkai stood on this very cape and sensed that this place was the closest to Kannon Bodhisattva\u2019s Pure Land\u2014Potalaka. He reported this revelation to Emperor Saga, who then ordered a temple to be built here and bestowed it with the imperial title \u201cPotalaka Eastern Gate.\u201d Today, as you approach the Ni\u014dmon gate, you can still see those five characters\u2014evidence of the deep respect and trust the emperor had for K\u016bkai.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 22: The Pilgrim's \"Business Card\"<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: 0
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 31 km<\/p>\n
Today, I want to share the unexpected joy of receiving my very first osamefuda\u2014a pilgrim\u2019s name slip. While having lunch at Temple 27, K\u014dnomine-ji, I greeted a kind couple nearby. Perhaps they could tell from my accent that I wasn't Japanese. Not long after they left, they actually doubled back to find me\u2014bringing a bag of food and handing me an osamefuda, which is like a business card exchanged among pilgrims on the Shikoku trail. I didn\u2019t have one of my own to give in return, but I was genuinely thrilled to receive it!<\/p>\n
Osamefuda are religious name slips with three main purposes. First, pilgrims write their name, address, age, wishes, and the date of their pilgrimage on them, and place them in offering boxes at the temple\u2019s Main Hall and Daishi Hall. It\u2019s a way of letting the deity and K\u016bkai know that you\u2019ve come. Second, they\u2019re exchanged among pilgrims\u2014a symbolic gesture of mutual blessing and camaraderie. Third, they're often given to locals as tokens of gratitude. You\u2019ll often see them pinned up on guesthouse message boards as keepsakes from thankful visitors.<\/p>\n
Receiving an osamefuda, along with such heartfelt kindness, was an incredible morale boost on this long and often solitary journey.
\n<\/p>\n
\u3002Day 23: The Final Temple of the Dojo of Discipline<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Enk\u014d-ji (No. 39)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 28 km<\/p>\n
Today, the most moving sight was a fellow pilgrim sitting quietly beneath a large tree, practicing in silence. At the last temple of the dojo, he reminded me not to forget my original intention\u2014that stillness and space can hold great power.<\/p>\n
There are only 16 temples in K\u014dchi, making it the smallest of the four sacred pilgrimage regions. Yet, it felt like the longest stretch of the journey. Finally arriving at the last temple, I found myself thinking, \u201cWait, is it really over already?\u201d\u2014a surreal feeling that's hard to put into words.<\/p>\n