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<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 25: Why Are Cooked Green Vegetables So Rare in Japan?<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Ry\u016bk\u014d-ji (No. 41) to Butsumoku-ji (No. 42)
\n\ud83d\ude87: 46 km
\n\u200d\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 8 km<\/p>\n
Since I\u2019m about to head deep into the mountains to test my resolve, I decided to give myself a short break these past two days\u2014traveling by bus and train. As fate would have it, I ran into a fellow pilgrim I hadn\u2019t seen in ages\u2014someone I started this journey with on Day 1! After catching up, I finally asked a question that\u2019s been on my mind for a while:
\n\u201cWhy is it that, even though supermarkets sell a lot of leafy greens, you almost never see cooked vegetables at guesthouses or restaurants?\u201d\nHe paused for a moment, perhaps never having thought about it before, then offered this first explanation:
\n\u201cMaybe it\u2019s just an unspoken cultural habit\u2014cooked leafy greens are more of a home-cooked thing.\u201d<\/p>\n
Not quite satisfied with that, he later added a second theory:
\n\u201cI think it\u2019s about presentation. Dark green vegetables are hard to pair visually, and once cooked they look soft and dull. To make the plating more attractive, restaurants tend to use raw lettuce, squash, or fruit instead.\u201d<\/p>\n
It makes sense! Now that I think about it, I have had cooked vegetables two or three times, but they were always served in elegant little side dishes. This explanation definitely feels convincing\u2014and quite insightful!<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 26: What Am I Still Not Tired Of?<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Meisekiji (No. 43)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 33 km<\/p>\n
Meisekiji isn\u2019t far from the city, yet it has an almost otherworldly serenity\u2014like a hidden sanctuary. The aged wooden structures radiate timelessness, and maybe it was the unexpected reunion with cherry blossoms that added to the magic. It\u2019s been ages since I last saw sakura on this journey, and suddenly, here they were again. It felt like a small miracle.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nAlong this long, long road, the question I ask myself most often isn\u2019t:
\n\u201cWhy am I walking the Shikoku pilgrimage?\u201d or \u201cWhat wish am I hoping to fulfill?\u201d (even though those are what most people ask me).
\nThe question I keep coming back to is:
\n\u201cWhy am I still not tired of this?\u201d<\/p>\n
I\u2019m someone who easily gets visually overstimulated and mentally stuck. Back in 2012, my first trip to Europe included six weeks in Germany, France, and Austria, packed with castles, churches, theaters, and museums. In under two weeks, I felt numb\u2014surrounded by beauty, yet emotionally dry. I found myself daydreaming about fried chicken and bubble tea in the middle of a grand cathedral. The following year in Greece, I found more joy playing with stray cats than looking at temples. And in Egypt two years ago, aside from awe-inspiring moments at the Giza pyramids, Abu Simbel, and the Valley of the Kings, I started yawning in broad daylight, brain-fried from too many murals.<\/p>\n
This time, it\u2019s different. There are no \u201csights\u201d\u2014just temples. And yet, every one of them\u2014with their familiar Ni\u014d gates, purification basins, bell towers, main halls, Daishi halls, and stamp stations\u2014feels special. I find joy in a single blooming cherry blossom tree, or feel motivated to climb an extra set of stone steps just because K\u016bkai once left a story here. Maybe it\u2019s the kindness I encounter along the way. Maybe it\u2019s because I\u2019m often on the receiving end of small, heartfelt gestures that make me feel truly grateful. But I think, in large part, it\u2019s because each of these sacred places is reached only after hours of aching steps or long, uncertain waits for the next bus or train. Just like love\u2014what you have to work hard to reach always feels the sweetest.\nAnd when it\u2019s that sweet, how could I ever grow tired of it?<\/p>\n
\u3002Day 27: Don\u2019t Zone Out at a Roadside Rest Stop<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: 0
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 19 km<\/p>\n
Today's goal was simple: reach the town at the foot of the mountain to prepare for tomorrow\u2019s early-morning climb. Now that I\u2019m walking faster on flat terrain, I arrived in just over five hours\u2014including short breaks. Not wanting to disturb the guesthouse by showing up too early, I took a seat at a shady gazebo at the Seseragi roadside rest stop. Not long after I sat down, a man came over and handed me a bottle of coffee milk. Then another man placed a bag of food in front of me\u2014udon, sushi, and barley tea. That morning I\u2019d already had a big breakfast. At lunch I ate an energy bar. And I had a full dinner awaiting me at my lodging. Panic set in. I quickly took off my white pilgrim vest and tried to hide my sugegasa hat behind my back, hoping desperately not to be recognized as a henro (pilgrim). In the end, I gratefully accepted the food and finished it all\u2014despite repeatedly muttering to myself, \u201cI thought I was full\u2026 Why is my body still eating like it\u2019s starving?\u201d<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 28: Finishing Just Before the Deadline was Such A Rush!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Daih\u014d-ji (No. 44) to Iwaya-ji (No. 45)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 34 km<\/p>\n
The stretch from Temple 43 (Meiseki-ji) to Temple 44 (Daih\u014d-ji) spans about 83 kilometers and includes multiple mountain crossings. It\u2019s known as one of the toughest sections on the pilgrimage. I tackled it over three days. While the trails were manageable, climbing over 500 meters with a full pack still left me completely drained. When I finally reached Daih\u014d-ji in the afternoon, sunlight was filtering softly through towering ancient trees past the Ni\u014d Gate\u2014it moved me to tears. But there was no time to linger. It was already past 2 p.m., and I still had a 2+ hour trek ahead to reach Iwaya-ji.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nAt the base of the mountain, I realized I had another 20 minutes of steep climbing to reach the temple itself. With the temple office closing at 5 p.m., adrenaline kicked in. I gritted my teeth and powered up the trail, arriving\u2014miraculously\u2014at 4:58 p.m. to receive my stamp. As I sat down afterward, my legs buckled beneath me. I couldn\u2019t believe I\u2019d made it in time. I guess all the \u201cassignments\u201d the mountains and sea had thrown at me so far really paid off\u2014my body somehow kept up with my will.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 29: I gave in and used my \u201cmoney superpower.\u201d<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: J\u014druriji (No. 46) to Sairinji (No. 48)
\n\ud83d\ude95: 23 km
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 21 km<\/p>\n
So far, I\u2019ve only ever woken up in the middle of the night twice on this journey: once on Day 4 before the tough climb to Sh\u014dsan-ji, poring over the route map the innkeeper had drawn. The second time was just last night, anxious about the heavy rain forecast for today. After all, I was headed through a remote mountain area, without buses or much foot traffic. Sure enough, I woke to drizzle, and as I descended the mountain, it turned into a downpour. After more than two hours of walking, I finally reached the city and asked a Lawson staff member to help me call a taxi.<\/p>\n
Taxis in Japan are famously expensive. In Ehime, the meter starts at 580 yen, and once you pass 1.1 km, it ticks up by 80 yen at lightning speed. So, I shut my eyes, embraced the comfort brought by \u201ccash power,\u201d and reminded myself\u2014this is why I work hard: so I can turn money into things I love.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\u3002Day 30: The Most Unique Osettai I\u2019ve Ever Received!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: J\u014ddo-ji (No. 49) to Enmy\u014d-ji (No. 53)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 24.6 km<\/p>\n
I had heard stories of people receiving cash as osettai (acts of kindness or offerings to pilgrims), but when it happened to me, I couldn\u2019t help but think, \u201cWait\u2014really? Am I allowed to accept this?\u201d Maybe K\u016bkai himself knew my wallet had torn yesterday when I took a taxi, and so he sent a kind soul to give me a little encouragement.\nOn the way to my guesthouse, an elderly woman walking toward me suddenly said, \u201cOsettai,\u201d then opened her wallet, took out 250 yen, and handed it to me. I waved my hands and thanked her, trying to decline politely, but she extended her hand and said, \u201cNomimono\u201d (a drink), clearly meaning she wanted to treat me to something refreshing. I\u2019d heard it\u2019s impolite to refuse an osettai, so I gratefully accepted her generosity.<\/p>\n
Inside her wallet, she also had a photo of Shohei Ohtani. She took it out and started telling me all about it. The only part I really understood was her excited \u201cKawaii!\u201d (so cute!). I immediately pointed at the photo and enthusiastically repeated, \u201cYes! Kawaii~~!\u201d And then\u2014she gave me her precious, kawaii Shohei Ohtani photo as a gift. It was the most unique osettai I\u2019ve ever received!<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
\u3002Day 31: Encountering the Legendary Dai-Sentatsu!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Enmei-ji (No. 54) to Taizan-ji (No. 56)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 18 km<\/p>\n
Today, I had planned to rest for half a day and then take a stroll in Imabari, famous for its towels and recently on my mind because of a wildfire that burned for five days in March. But after eating way too much at lunch\u2014so full I was practically out of breath\u2014I just wanted to walk it off. Somehow, I ended up walking all the way to Taizanji, three kilometers away. Thankfully, I made the trip because I was lucky enough to meet the legendary Dai-Sentatsu! As soon as I arrived at Taizanji, I was drawn to a man holding an adorable dog. After fulfilling my wish to take a photo with the pup, the man handed me a n\u014dry\u014d\u2014a pilgrim\u2019s business card.<\/p>\n
Wow\u2014it was a special edition, shining silver and beautifully crafted, with \u201cTokunin Dai-Sentatsu\u201d (Specially Appointed Great Sentatsu) printed on the back! A Sentatsu is a pilgrim officially recognized by the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage Association. They dedicate themselves to guiding others on the pilgrimage and must have extensive knowledge about the pilgrimage and the sacred sites. Once certified, Sentatsu receive exclusive pilgrimage tools: a special n\u014dky\u014dch\u014d (stamp book), rengasa (pilgrim\u2019s robe), kong\u014dzue (pilgrim\u2019s staff), and a numbered name tag. The Sentatsu rank has five levels, each requiring a set number of years and pilgrimage completions, plus recommendations from temple priests. That means this highest-ranked Dai-Sentatsu has completed at least 14 full pilgrimages over more than 10 years and received endorsements from five temple chiefs. Wow! This person has truly devoted a large part of their life to the pilgrimage. RESPECT!<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 32: Give Me Five!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Eifuku-ji (No. 57) to Kokubun-ji (No. 59)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 28.6 km<\/p>\n
I was overjoyed to run into the older pilgrim I hadn\u2019t seen in over two weeks\u2014right at Senny\u016b-ji! We had crossed paths several times before at various temples and guesthouses. Even though we couldn\u2019t communicate through language, we always encouraged each other with a high five. Today, when we reunited, he did something rare\u2014he opened up a translation app and said:
\n\u201cI\u2019ve been thinking about you lately. I\u2019m really happy to see you again!\u201d<\/p>\n
Honestly, I felt the same. Most of the time, we walk alone, eat alone. But in those solitary moments, we often find ourselves thinking about the kind people we\u2019ve met along the way\u2014those familiar faces who, through a few shared encounters, have become part of our journey. We quietly wish them a good day and a safe arrival at the next temple or guesthouse. This kind man is one of those people I think of often. After all, he\u2019s the only one who ever reaches out his big hand for a Give Me Five!<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 33: Finally Reaching the 60s!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Yokomine-ji (No. 60)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 34 km<\/p>\n
Temple 60, Yokomine-ji, sits halfway up Mount Ishizuchi in western Japan at an altitude of 750 meters. It\u2019s considered one of the five most difficult temples to reach and is the third highest among all Shikoku pilgrimage sites. At the age of 24, K\u016bkai practiced extreme asceticism on Mount Ishizuchi, going without food\u2014a testament to the mountain\u2019s status as a sacred site for spiritual training. Originally, I planned to take the traditional pilgrimage path, but after last night\u2019s rain, I wasn\u2019t keen on slipping over wet stones and fallen leaves. So today, I opted to hike from the Yokomine trailhead instead. It\u2019s a bit longer, but the route is manageable\u2014even a soft-legged newbie like me could make the round trip in under five hours. With Mount Ishizuchi rising to nearly 2,000 meters, it\u2019s also one of Japan\u2019s top stargazing spots. Next time I visit Ehime, I\u2019ll come back as a proper tourist and enjoy the view!<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\u3002Day 34: K\u014don-ji Could Host a Concert!<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: K\u014don-ji (No. 61) to Maegami-ji (No. 64)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 12 km
\n\ud83d\ude87: 48 km<\/p>\n
Just when I was starting to feel a bit of \u201ctemple fatigue,\u201d along came a surprise\u2014Temple 61, K\u014don-ji, looks nothing like any other temple I\u2019ve visited! Originally founded in the 7th century by Prince Sh\u014dtoku, K\u014don-ji was completely rebuilt in 1976 as a modern structure made of reinforced concrete. Its main hall can hold over 600 worshippers, and honestly, the atmosphere inside feels like it could host a Dainichi Nyorai concert!<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nTemple 63, Kissh\u014d-ji, is another standout\u2014it\u2019s the only temple in all of Shikoku that enshrines Bishamonten, the guardian deity of wealth and warriors. The temple takes great pride in this distinction, with \u201cShikoku\u2019s One and Only\u201d engraved in many spots. Rarity breeds reverence, and the steady stream of visitors shows just how beloved this place is.<\/p>\n
<\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\nIn the afternoon, I hopped on the Yosan Line train to get closer to the base of tomorrow\u2019s mountain. That will mark the end of my journey through Ehime\u2014Shikoku\u2019s Bodai-d\u014dj\u014d, or \u201cPlace of Enlightenment,\u201d furthest from the pilgrimage\u2019s starting point. This region surprised me every day and, without a doubt, strengthened both my legs and my spirit. I may still be far from freeing myself from worldly attachments or reaching enlightenment, but I\u2019ve definitely gained a bit of confidence in myself.<\/p>\n
\u3002Day 35: Is It Normal to See Red Maple Leaves in May?<\/h6>\n
Temples Visited: Sankaku-ji (No. 65)
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 13.7 km<\/p>\n
Perched at an altitude of 360 meters, Sankaku-ji marks the final temple of the Bodai-d\u014dj\u014d, the \u201cPlace of Enlightenment.\u201d As I approached the Ni\u014d Gate, I was immediately drawn to the maple leaves\u2014shifting from green to a vivid red... Wait\u2014red maple leaves? At the edge of spring, isn\u2019t that a little unusual? Maybe, just like the cherry blossoms that seemed confused by the erratic weather lately\u2014blooming early, late, or not at all\u2014the maples are feeling a bit lost too. It\u2019s as if even the trees aren\u2019t sure what season it is anymore.<\/p>\n