{"id":7601,"date":"2025-07-30T17:00:51","date_gmt":"2025-07-30T09:00:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/yuartheworld.com\/?p=7601"},"modified":"2025-07-02T16:29:45","modified_gmt":"2025-07-02T08:29:45","slug":"kagawa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/yuartheworld.com\/en\/kagawa\/","title":{"rendered":"JAPAN \u25e6 SHIKOKU\uff5cShikoku Pilgrimage \u2013 Kagawa: The Final Chapter is the First Chapter"},"content":{"rendered":"

From Temple No. 66, Unpen-ji, to Temple No. 88, \u014ckubo-ji, there are 23 temples located within Kagawa Prefecture. As the final leg of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, Kagawa symbolizes the journey of a pilgrim who, after enduring hardships and overcoming inner struggles, finally reaches a state of spiritual freedom, fulfillment, and peace.<\/p>\n

Still entangled in the secular world, I can't help but be brought back to reality by the searing pain of near-plantar fasciitis \u2014 far from reaching any kind of enlightened detachment. What I can say for certain, though, is that the people, places, and experiences of Shikoku have deepened my affection for Japan more than I thought possible; and that, if the day comes when I can no longer walk, I\u2019ll miss this stubborn version of myself \u2014 the one who insisted on reaching the destination, no matter what.<\/p>\n

\u3002Day 36: A Day in the Life of a Pilgrim<\/h6>\n

Temples visited: 0
\n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 14 km<\/p>\n

Today\u2019s destination is a guesthouse run by the legendary pilgrim \u201cGrandpa Okada,\u201d located at the foot of Unpen-ji \u2014 widely known as the toughest climb on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. After sleeping in a different place each night and staying in 17 guesthouses so far, I thought I\u2019d share what life is like at these pilgrim lodgings.\nA pilgrim\u2019s daily rhythm is closely tied to where they stay.<\/p>\n

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With the 88 temples scattered across countryside, mountains, coastal points, and towns, choosing accommodation is like real estate investing: Location, location, location! In rural areas, you won\u2019t find chain hotels \u2014 just finding a guesthouse near the last temple you plan to visit today, or the first one for tomorrow, is already a stroke of luck. The next priority is whether the guesthouse offers \u201cone night, two meals.\u201d On the pilgrimage route, shops and restaurants are rare, so living off cookies, bread, and energy bars every day would be disheartening. I almost always opt for the meal plan, which also means I need to return to the guesthouse on time \u2014 because there's still plenty to do in the evening. After walking 7 to 9 hours, that\u2019s enough exertion for one day.<\/p>\n

Guesthouses along the pilgrimage tend to follow a simple, structured routine set by the hosts. Check-in usually starts after 3 p.m., and pilgrims trickle in between 3 and 4. Most places have just one shared bath, so you wait in your room for your turn. After bathing, you wait again for dinner, usually served by 6:30 at the latest.\nAfter eating, guests often chat in the dining room before saying good night and heading to bed. Stretching and elevating my legs is a must-do ritual \u2014 I try to finish by 10 p.m., then I\u2019m out like a light. The next day usually starts around 5 a.m., followed by breakfast at 6, then it\u2019s time to hit the road again.<\/p>\n

Three things about these guesthouses have genuinely surprised me:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. No passport check required. Just fill out your name and basic details. The level of trust in foreign guests is incredible.<\/li>\n
  2. You pay after breakfast the next morning, which also gives you a chance to thank the hosts.<\/li>\n
  3. Some places literally don\u2019t lock the doors. The first time I encountered this, I asked the hostess where the room key was. She cheerfully replied, \u201cThere are no keys \u2014 it\u2019s totally safe here!\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    A couple of times, I was placed next to male pilgrims in traditional Japanese rooms, where sliding open the door would reveal your neighbor directly\u2026Of course, everyone was respectful and never opened the doors \u2014 but you could still hear every movement and sound from next door. What can I say? The people of Shikoku are warm-hearted, and the pilgrims kind and considerate. These aren\u2019t experiences you\u2019d ever have in a hotel, ryokan, or Airbnb. And they\u2019ll surely be the things I miss most when I look back on my time walking the Shikoku Pilgrimage.<\/p>\n

    \u3002Day 37: Climbing in the Rain to the Highest and Hardest Temple<\/h6>\n

    Temples visited: Unpen-ji (No. 66)
    \n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 16.8 km
    \n\ud83d\udea0\uff1aDescend the mountain<\/p>\n

    A few days ago, I saw the weather forecast and knew rain was coming \u2014 still, I couldn\u2019t help but feel a little uneasy. But when the moment finally came to step out and the rain came pouring down, I felt oddly calm. It was happening \u2014 and I had to move forward anyway. You won\u2019t get anywhere just standing still. The pilgrimage path from Guesthouse Okada to Unpen-ji was surprisingly manageable. Despite the rain, the trail wasn\u2019t slippery \u2014 not many fallen leaves or loose stones. It\u2019s steep, yes, but not treacherous. Even someone with shaky legs like me could reach the summit in three and a half hours.<\/p>\n

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    At 911 meters above sea level \u2014 the highest elevation of the Shikoku Pilgrimage \u2014 Unpen-ji lives up to its name: the \u201cTemple at the Edge of the Clouds.\u201d Visibility was down to just five meters \u2014 everything beyond was swallowed by mist. It really felt like standing on the edge of the clouds. This surreal beauty, however, is a rainy-day exclusive. On clear days, the view stretches far and wide, with the Seto Inland Sea visible in the distance. In autumn, it\u2019s even a popular spot for fall foliage.<\/p>\n

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    \u3002Day 38: Teleporting to the Next Temple Instantly!<\/h6>\n

    Temples visited: Daik\u014d-ji (No. 67) to Motoyama-ji (No. 70)
    \n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 18.5 km<\/p>\n

    After visiting so many sacred sites, this was the first time I experienced the only \"two-in-one\" temple on the Shikoku Pilgrimage: Jinnein and Kanonji. It truly felt like teleportation \u2014 going from one temple to the next in an instant. Even the temple stamps (n\u014dky\u014d) were done by the same head priest. Lightning-fast!<\/p>\n

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    Originally, Jinnein and Kanonji were a single temple. But during the Meiji era, when Japan enforced the policy of separating Shinto and Buddhism (shinbutsu bunri), all Buddhist statues from the nearby Hachiman Shrine were moved into the western Golden Hall \u2014 what is now Jinnein.<\/p>\n

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    \u3002Day 39: What Was I Doing When I Was Seven?<\/h6>\n

    Temples visited: Iyadaniji (No. 71) to K\u014dyamaji (No. 74)
    \n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 22.8 km<\/p>\n

    Today I walked through an area called Zents\u016bji City. Why would a town be named after a temple? It turns out Zents\u016b-ji is the birthplace of K\u016bkai, the founder of Shingon Buddhism. The surrounding mountains and temples were where he spent his early childhood \u2014 playing, learning, and eventually, practicing asceticism. Starting from Temple 71, Iyadaniji, the entire atmosphere began to shift. K\u016bkai\u2019s presence became almost tangible. At Iyadaniji\u2019s \u201cLion\u2019s Rock Cave,\u201d he is said to have studied from age 9 to 12 \u2014 today, you\u2019ll find statues of him alongside his parents inside.<\/p>\n

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    At Temple 73, Shusshaka-ji, there\u2019s a sacred viewpoint called Shashinga-take Y\u014dhaijo, where one of the most powerful legends of his youth is remembered.\nAt just seven years old, K\u016bkai climbed to the summit of Mount Gahaishi and made a vow to dedicate his life to Buddhism and the salvation of all beings. He prayed: if his wish was accepted, may Shakyamuni Buddha show a miracle; if not, he would offer his own body to the Buddhas \u2014 and then he leapt off a cliff. To me, the fact that he survived is one miracle, but the fact that he made such a vow at the age of seven \u2014 that, too, is a miracle in itself. Perhaps the life of a spiritual master is really a chain of miracles from the start.<\/p>\n

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    \u3002Day 40: The Birthplace of K\u016bkai<\/h6>\n

    Temples visited: Zents\u016b-ji (No. 75) to G\u014dsh\u014d-ji (No. 78)
    \n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 19.5 km<\/p>\n

    As K\u016bkai\u2019s birthplace, Zents\u016b-ji stands alongside Kyoto\u2019s T\u014d-ji and Wakayama\u2019s K\u014dyasan as the three great sacred sites dedicated to the founder of Shingon Buddhism.\nJust looking at the map reveals how vast the temple grounds are; once inside, you immediately sense an undeniable grandeur that sets this place apart from other pilgrimage sites. The temple staff, always impeccably dressed and radiating warm, graceful smiles, create a welcoming and comfortable atmosphere.<\/p>\n

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    In the afternoon, as I arrived at Temple 78, G\u014dsh\u014d-ji, a light rain began to fall. The scene of K\u016bkai\u2019s legendary encounter with Emon Sabur\u014d felt especially vivid and dramatic under the gentle drizzle. Emon Sabur\u014d, who had brought misfortune upon himself through past misdeeds, undertook a harsh pilgrimage across Shikoku to seek K\u016bkai\u2019s forgiveness \u2014 becoming known as the original model pilgrim.<\/p>\n

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    \u3002Day 41: The Last Ten Temples!<\/h6>\n

    Temples visited: Tenn\u014d-ji (No. 79) to Kokubun-ji (No. 80)
    \n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 21.9 km<\/p>\n

    Blessed by Emperor Sutoku, Tenn\u014d-ji stands out not only for its grand name but also for its striking vermilion torii gate. During the 12th-century H\u014dgen Rebellion, Emperor Sutoku was exiled to Sanuki. After his death, Emperor Saga established this temple to honor him, hence the name Tenn\u014d-ji (Emperor\u2019s Temple).<\/p>\n

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    In the afternoon, while walking around Sanuki Kokubun-ji, I suddenly spotted a familiar face \u2014 Mr. \u201cGive Me Five\u201d! Using a translation app, he said something like, \u201cIt hasn\u2019t been easy getting this far. The end is almost in sight!\u201d Indeed, today marks the start of the final ten temples countdown. Just three more mountains to climb, and the pilgrimage will be complete. We exchanged high fives and wished each other smooth completion of our journey.<\/p>\n

    \u3002Day 42: Why Am I So Reluctant to Accept Cash Offerings?<\/h6>\n

    Temples visited: Shiramine-ji (No. 81) to Negoro-ji (No. 82)
    \n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 32 km<\/p>\n

    Today, once again, I walked to the brink of plantar fasciitis. Every step I took after a break sent a sharp pain through my foot. Shiramine-ji and Negoro-ji sit at altitudes of 280m and 365m respectively\u2014not too high, and the pilgrimage paths weren\u2019t particularly tough: one involved an endless climb of stone steps, the other, a slightly slippery downhill trail. My mind felt light, but the accumulated exhaustion continued to speak clearly through my body.<\/p>\n

    Over more than five hours on the mountain trails, I came across only one open shop: Michikusa, a tiny noodle and general store run by an elderly woman. Known affectionately as the \u201cOasis of the Pilgrimage,\u201d it offered the priceless comfort of a steaming bowl of udon when I was famished. Nothing could have made me happier in that moment.<\/p>\n

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    On my way back to the inn, a woman I had nodded hello to earlier suddenly called out from behind. She pulled out a 1,000 yen bill from her pocket and handed it to me.<\/p>\n

    It was the first time I\u2019d ever received an osettai in cash. Shocked, I instinctively waved my hands and said, \u201cToo much!\u201d But in a flurry of gestures and mutual incomprehension, I gratefully accepted it. Aside from dealing with physical pain, what occupies most of my mental space during this pilgrimage is rethinking how I perceive value. That same 1,000 yen, if received as food or goods, somehow feels easier to accept. But why does cash make me hesitate so much? After all, it\u2019s one of the most straightforward expressions of kindness.<\/p>\n

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    \u3002Day 43: Instant Karma<\/h6>\n

    Temples visited: Ichinomiya-ji (No. 83) to Yakuri-ji (No. 85)
    \n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 31 km
    \n\ud83d\udea0: Descend the mountain<\/p>\n

    Before soaking in the public bath, I stepped on the scale\u20142 kilograms heavier than when I started the pilgrimage. So there you have it: living proof that \u201ceat more, move more\u201d doesn\u2019t equal weight loss. It\u2019s \u201ceat less, move more\u201d that actually works!\nMeanwhile, the genetically blessed Japanese people remain slim and graceful even with a diet of ramen and gyoza. I try one \u201cdouble-carb\u201d meal and boom\u2014instant karma. Still, I have no regrets. After descending from Yaku\u014d-ji, I deliberately walked an extra 2 kilometers to get to Honjin Yamada-ya, a renowned udon shop.\nIts building is registered as a tangible cultural property, and their noodle-making strictly follows traditional steps: kneading by foot, hand-rolling the dough\u2014every bite of those fragrant, chewy noodles was absolutely worth it! So I\u2019ll keep praying seriously, eating wholeheartedly, and fueling up for the final stretch ahead.<\/p>\n

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    \u3002Day 44: Pilgrimage Complete!<\/h6>\n

    Temples visited: Shido-ji (No. 86) to \u014ckubo-ji (No. 88)
    \n\ud83d\udeb6\ud83c\udffe\u200d\u2640\ufe0f: 22.6 km
    \n\ud83d\ude8c: 22 km<\/p>\n

    44 days, 88 temples, 1,200 kilometers \u2014 today, the journey is finally complete.\nAs the final temple stamp from \u014ckubo-ji was pressed into my pilgrimage book, I was surprised by the calmness I felt. But immediately after came a deep sense of reluctance to say goodbye. There are so many things I have to part with today.<\/p>\n

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    Ken-san, who walked with me on the first day, whom I bumped into time and again along the route, and who, by fate, also completed his pilgrimage on the same day \u2014 is now heading back to Tokyo on an overnight bus. My woven sedge hat, which shielded me from wind and rain for 44 days, will stay behind at \u014ckubo-ji. The days of solitary walking, during which my mind grew clearer with each step, are coming to a close. One day, when I'm no longer able to walk like this, I know I\u2019ll look back with longing at this deeply nourishing and beautiful time in my life.<\/p>\n

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    \u3002Day 45: Full Circle, K\u014dyasan Awaits<\/h6>\n

    Temples visited: Ry\u014dzen-ji (No. 1)
    \n\ud83d\ude87: 84 km<\/p>\n

    After completing their pilgrimage, many henro (pilgrims) return to where it all began \u2014 the first sacred site, Ry\u014dzen-ji \u2014 forming a perfect spiritual circle. Others journey to Mount K\u014dya, where K\u016bkai (K\u014db\u014d Daishi) entered eternal meditation, to report the completion of their pilgrimage. Returning to Temple No. 1, I took my time expressing gratitude to every person who had cared for or helped me along the way. The more I thought about it, the more emotional I became \u2014 the people and places of Shikoku have deepened my affection for Japan in so many unexpected ways.\nAs tradition goes, donning the white pilgrim robes, the sedge hat, and the wagesa, one is treated with a special kind of respect by the people of Shikoku, who have long held K\u016bkai in deep reverence.<\/p>\n

    But being a pilgrim is like being an athlete, a mountaineer, or anyone earnestly pursuing a goal \u2014 people can sense that you\u2019re walking toward something meaningful, and they want to help you get a little closer to it. Every day, I felt that kindness \u2014 in a friendly greeting, a bottle of tea, someone showing me the way, or even tangible support like money or services. All of it strengthened my resolve to keep moving forward. Even when I was completely exhausted, I never once thought about quitting \u2014 that\u2019s the magic of the Shikoku pilgrimage.<\/p>\n

    K\u014db\u014d Daishi, see you next time at Mount K\u014dya.<\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    This journey along the Shikoku Pilgrimage gave me the rare chance to spend long stretches of time alone with myself\u2014bringing both reflection and inspiration.\nI sincerely hope more people can personally experience the depth and meaning of this sacred trail. If you're curious or planning to walk it yourself, I hope this article offers even a small bit of help. If you\u2019re interested in the scenery along the route or what the temples look like, feel free to visit my YouTube channel. In the Shorts section, I\u2019ve documented every temple\u2014precious memories I\u2019ll keep revisiting again and again.<\/p>\n

    TAIWAN 368 YouTube<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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