If it weren’t for my determination to visit all 368 towns and townships of Taiwan, I probably would have never made my way to Xianxi along the coastal route. Riding my scooter, I felt the desolation of the journey, yet at certain turns, I would stumble upon cultural scenes rarely found elsewhere. I think it is precisely these fleeting, precious moments that keep me going.
Contents
◦ Changhua Travel Guide
01｜Transportation in Changhua
🚄 Taiwan High Speed Rail
🛵 Scooter Rental in Changhua
🚗 Cross-city Chartered One-day Tour From Taipei
02｜Popular Attractions in Changhua
🎫 Gushengwu Park Ticket in Changhua
🎫 Magical Mushrooms Tribe Ticket and DIY Experience in Changhua
🎫 Tickets for Juan Musen Living Museum
🎫 Yunhe Starry Sky View Restaurant Ticket
🎫 Cheng Mei Cultural Park Ticket in Changhua
03｜Things To Do in Changhua
🏕️ Glamping in Changhua by Ouxiang Manor Hotel
🍪 DIY Experience at Taiwan You Good School of Cookie
◦ The Past of Xianxi
Xianxi Township lies in the northwest of Changhua County. To the north, it borders Shengang Township; to the east, the bustling town of Hemei; to the south, the historically rich Lukang; and to the west, it meets the Taiwan Strait. It is the smallest administrative district in Changhua by area.
In the 17th year of the Jiaqing Emperor’s reign (1812), the Qing court divided the then “Banxian Bao” (present-day Changhua) into “Banxian East Bao” and “Banxian West Bao,” marking the distinction between the eastern and western halves of Banxian. Later, “Bao” was changed to “Fort” (堡), and in the 13th year of the Guangxu Emperor’s reign (1887), “Banxian West Fort” was shortened to “Xianxi Fort.” The name “Xianxi” has been passed down ever since.
◦ Attractions in Xianxi
01｜Yizai Fishing Port
Tucked beneath the elevated section of the Xianxi stretch of the West Coast Expressway, Yizai Fishing Port is the only harbor in Changhua that sells “xian-liu” catch—meaning seafood caught that very day, never frozen or thawed, brought straight from the fishing boats to the market. Though modest in size, the harbor is a treasure trove of fresh seafood—fish, shrimp, crabs, oysters, squid, and a wide variety of local fish—making it a hidden gem known mostly to locals.
There’s even a cooked food section and on-the-spot seafood preparation service. I bought a box of crabs and happily enjoyed them right there on the nearby seawall.
Yizai Fishing Port Opening Hours: 0900-2100 Yugang Rd., Xianxi Township, Changhua
02｜Clam Barracks
The uniquely named Clam Barracks was originally a coastal defense camp. In the 1960s, it transformed into a dormitory area for retired soldiers who took up clam farming.
In 1962, to help veterans become self-sufficient, the Veterans Affairs Council promoted clam aquaculture here and built small houses of about 15 ping (roughly 500 square feet) each, so these veterans could settle down without worries. This is how the place came to be called “Clam Barracks.”
However, after 1975, as the coastal area became newly reclaimed land, seawater could no longer flow freely into the aquaculture ponds, making clam farming unsustainable. Veterans and their families were forced to find new livelihoods elsewhere. The once lively Clam Barracks gradually fell into ruin, becoming a shelter for homeless people. The remote, desolate scene and abandoned houses—empty even in broad daylight—made me break out in a cold sweat when I visited.
Clam Barracks No. 101, Sec. 3, Zhongyang Rd., Xianxi Township, Changhua
03｜Yong’an Drum Workshop
Hidden in an alley in Gounai Village, Yong’an Drum Workshop is easy to miss without guidance from a local. After some effort, I finally arrived—but the owner happened to be out. Luckily, a relative warmly welcomed me inside to take a look around.
Stepping into the modest-sized workshop, I was immediately greeted by the distinctive scent of cowhide. Inside, tools for drum making, hemp ropes, partially finished drumheads, and unpainted drum shells were neatly arranged. The photos on the wall reveal just how proud the owner is of his craft.
In Taiwan, traditional drum-making is gradually being replaced by machines. Yet, Yong’an Drum Workshop, with over seventy years of history, remains committed to the most time-consuming and meticulous handcrafting methods under its third-generation owner, Huang Cheng-Feng. He does this to preserve a skill that is slowly fading away. This is more than just a craft—it is an important cultural heritage of Taiwan and one of the reasons I keep returning to visit towns and villages across the island.
Yong’an Drum Workshop Opening Hours: 0900-1800. Visits by appointment only; same-day appointments are not accepted. No. 48, Gounei Rd., Xianxi Township, Changhua
04｜Ximai Baking Kingdom
The colorful, cake-shaped exterior of Ximai Baking Kingdom looks like something out of a fairy tale. At first, I wondered if it was just a flashy tourist attraction with little substance. But once I stepped inside, I discovered it was filled not only with delightful aromas but also genuine care and dedication.
On the second floor, I happened upon a group of students in a DIY baking class making cupcakes. Through the glass windows, I could feel their focus and excitement. Nearby, the product display area showcased a variety of sweets and ingredients. The vibrant colors were especially captivating for children.
After learning about egg rolls, my cravings got the better of me, and I headed to the first-floor shop. The generous samples of Ximai’s egg rolls won me over instantly. My favorites were the rich cocoa hazelnut cream egg rolls and the savory salted egg yolk ones—both perfect companions for tea or coffee!
Ximai Baking Kingdom Opening Hours: 0900-1800 No. 5, Hexian Rd., Xianxi Township, Changhua
◦ Restaurants and Snacks in Xianxi
01｜Xianxi Yizai Meatball
This little-known Yizai Meatball shop, easy to miss if you’re just passing by, was recommended to me by the wife of a fisherman at Yizai Fishing Harbor. Having eaten here since childhood, she praised both the meatballs and the meat soup highly, sparking my curiosity to give them a try.
The meatball filling uses tender yet chewy shoulder meat, while the meat soup is made from springy hind leg meat. The combination of rich aroma and satisfying texture makes it easy to see why this popular spot attracts many locals buying takeout right from the moment it opens.
Xianxi Yizai Meatball Opening Hours: 1030-1600, closed on Monday. No. 10, Sec. 2, Yanhai Rd., Xianxi Township, Changhua
◦ Flying Over Taiwan
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◦ Other Areas in Changhua
➤ Puxin | Exploring Historic Houses, Savoring Grapes, and Unearthing Hidden Gems in the Countryside
➤ Lukang | Lukang Dragon Boat Festival
➤ Ershui | A Golden Tunnel Adorned by Spring