最後更新／Last Updated：2024-12-23
Today marks "Shuangjiang," one of the 24 solar terms, signifying the weather turning colder and dew forming frost. During this season, the silver grass in the mountainous town of Ruifang gradually blooms, covering the hillsides and creating an ethereal landscape! After descending the mountain, I headed towards the Gold Museum to continue exploring the mining sites and landscapes of Ruifang.
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◦ The Past of Ruifang
During the Guangxu period, land transportation was inconvenient, and cargo to and from Taipei had to rely on the Keelung River for transportation and supplies. Ruifang, surrounded by mountains and facing the sea, became a crucial water transportation hub, with its main port located in Ganzilai (now Ganping Village). This location became a necessary stopover between the Taipei area and Kamalan (now Yilan County).
Later, gold was discovered in the mountains of Jinguashi and Jiufen, attracting a large number of miners. On their way to the mountains to mine gold, people would pass through Ganzilai. There was a grocery store called "Ruifang" that became a rest stop for those heading to the mining areas and for travelers commuting between Taipei and Kamalan. Many travelers and miners would refer to their destination as "going to Ruifang" or "coming back from Ruifang." Over time, "Ruifang" became the name of the area.
With the decline of the gold mining industry, Jiufen's prosperity waned for a period. In recent years, due to the rise of the tourism industry, Jiufen has started a new chapter, becoming a popular destination for people to relax.
◦ Attractions in Ruifang
01｜Baoshi Mountain
The Baoshi Mountain Trail is a highly rewarding hike! This 166-meter-long trail offers stunning sea views and takes only about 10 minutes to reach the observation deck from the parking lot, making it perfect for family outings.
After passing through the archway of Quanjitang, you will reach the first turn of a series of S-shaped bends, where you will find Jingming Pavilion. The pavilion offers excellent views, allowing you to gaze at the sprawling Keelung Mountain and admire the swaying silver grass.
Baoshi Mountain No. 53, Qitang Rd., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City Starting from Quanjitang, walk 100 meters uphill to reach the parking lot.
02｜Gold Museum
The Gold Museum is located next to the Benshan Fifth Tunnel in the Gold Ecological Park and is Taiwan's first eco-museum. This museum was refurbished from the former office of the Taiwan Metal Mining Corporation and fully presents the mining history and culture of Jinguashi.
The Gold Museum has three floors. The first floor showcases the Benshan Tunnel, the geological conditions of Jinguashi, and mining tools.
The second floor focuses on gold, introducing its properties and various applications. However, the most eye-catching treasure is the giant gold brick weighing 220.3 kilograms, which holds a Guinness World Record. This gold brick, valued at over four billion dollars, is a hot topic among visitors.
After leaving the Gold Museum, I spent a long time at the Gold Ecological Park. One of the most impressive experiences was the virtual reality (VR) encounter at the Earth Pavilion. By sitting in a minecart and wearing a VR headset, we were transported back to the 1950s to engage in the mining operations of the Benshan Fourth Tunnel. This immersive tunnel adventure enables visitors to understand the early mining process and interact with beautiful minerals through lever operations, making it very enjoyable!
Gold Museum Opening Hours: 0930-1700 No. 8, Jinguang Rd., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City
03｜Keelung Mountain
Near Jiufen Old Street, Keelung Mountain is listed among the Top 100 Small Mountains for hiking and is one of Jiufen's landmarks. Hiking up the stone steps this season, you can see silver grass swaying in the wind on both sides of the trail, giving a strong sense of autumn.
Keelung Mountain Jishan St., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City
04｜Jiufen Old Street
Before the mining boom, Jiufen was known for its camphor production, boasting ninety camphor kilns. Since ten kilns were called a "fen," the area was named Jiufen, which eventually became the place name. Around 1890, residents discovered a gold vein near Xiaojinguashi, leading to a rush of miners and rapid prosperity for Jiufen. After World War II, the gold mines were exhausted, and Jiufen gradually declined.
However, in 1989, the film "A City of Sadness," shot in Jiufen, won acclaim at the Venice Film Festival, bringing attention back to this overlooked mountain town. Jiufen Old Street, winding up the hillside, is now adorned with a variety of shops, reviving Jiufen's former glory.
Jiufen at night is a picturesque scene with a story to tell. The Amei Teahouse, once mistaken for the inspiration behind "Spirited Away," continues to attract crowds despite director Hayao Miyazaki clarifying the misunderstanding. The enchanting night view, with its glowing lanterns, draws many tourists from around the world.
Jiufen Old Street Opening Hours: 1000-2000 Jishan St., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City
05｜Houtong Cat Village
In its early years, Houtong was Taiwan's largest coal mining town. As the mines were depleted, the town's former glory faded. In 2009, a renowned cat photographer visited Houtong in search of cats and discovered hundreds of them in Guangfu Village. This led to the formation of a volunteer group dedicated to improving the lives of the cats, and gradually, a cat-friendly environment was created.
With the spread of information online, Houtong became famous again as a cat village. The nearby Houtong Station has been renovated into Taiwan's first cat-themed old train station.
Walking across the overpass into the cat village, watching the cats chase each other, and dart across rooftops brings an indescribable joy.
Houtong Cat Village The hill behind Houtong Station
◦ Restaurants and Snacks in Ruifang
01｜Grandma Lai's Sweet Taro Balls
For some reason, visiting Jiufen feels incomplete without trying taro balls, meatballs, and herbal rice cakes. Early in the morning, while wandering around the old street, I came across Grandma Lai's Sweet Taro Balls, one of the few stores open early. Seeing the skilled hands making fresh taro balls at the entrance, I was drawn inside.
The signature taro balls and sweet potato balls were impressive, with a chewy texture and delightful aroma. What surprised me the most were the sesame balls and green tea balls, which are seldom found elsewhere, adding a unique touch to the overall flavor!
Grandma Lai's Sweet Taro Balls Opening Hours: 0800-2000 No. 143, Jishan St., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City
02｜Ah Lan Herbal Glutinous Rice Cake
As I approached Ah Lan Herbal Glutinous Rice Cake, the already narrow Jiufen Old Street became even more crowded. Not being a fan of adzuki beans, I opted for the shredded radish filling. At first bite, it reminded me of mochi, but upon closer tasting, I noticed it was somewhat different. The herbal rice cake was softer and stickier, with a mild, pleasant aroma of Cudweed. The generously filled radish had a savory and fragrant flavor.
Ah Lan Herbal Glutinous Rice Cake Opening Hours: 0900-1900 No. 90, Jishan St., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City
03｜Shi Mi Dien
During dinner time, finding a place in Jiufen Old Street without a long line can be nearly impossible. By sheer luck, I stumbled into Shi Mi Dien, where the last available table awaited me. In the chilly night of Jiufen, sipping on the spicy soup and eating stinky tofu soaked in broth was a true delight. However, I personally didn't enjoy the Taiwanese pickles in the stinky tofu. The sour and salty pickles clashed with the spiciness of the stinky tofu, creating a conflict of flavors that didn't quite sit well with me.
Shi Mi Dien Opening Hours: 1130-1900 No. 106, Jishan St., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City
04｜Feng Wei Pork Thick Soup
Exiting Ruifang Train Station and following Minsheng Street to its end, you'll find the well-organized Ruifang Food Court. Among the various stalls, the most popular one is undoubtedly Feng Wei Pork Thick Soup. Known for its high reputation, Feng Wei received the "Excellence Award" at the 2019 New Taipei Good City Awards, making it the only vendor to achieve this honor.
The menu is detailed with pictures, making it easy for even foreign tourists to order by simply pointing at the pictures—a smart approach for a Taiwanese market stall. Although I'm not particularly interested in rou geng (meat thick soup), I opted for a bowl of squid rice noodles, considering its status as a hidden gem on the menu. The fresh and chewy squid, paired with the refreshing rice noodles and flavorful broth, makes this dish a reliable choice when you're unsure of what to eat.
Feng Wei Pork Thick Soup Opening Hours: 0800-2000 No. 2, Ln. 35, Minsheng St., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City
05｜The Black Tea Shop
As I enjoyed the squid rice noodles, I observed a constant flow of customers at the adjacent Black Tea shop. The shop offers only two beverages: black tea and osmanthus plum juice. Following the suggestion on the paper cup, I opted to try the osmanthus plum juice. The fragrance of osmanthus did not overpower the taste of the plum juice; rather, it added a subtle and elegant aroma. It is no wonder this beverage has become a popular choice for many!
The Black Tea Shop Opening Hours: 0900-1930 No. 2, Ln. 35, Minsheng St., Ruifang Dist., New Taipei City
◦ Flying Over Taiwan
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