Located in the northeastern part of Kaohsiung, Neimen is renowned for its religious culture and traditional folk arts. It is the birthplace of the famous Neimen Song Jiang Battle Ritual and a top destination for experiencing the culinary artistry of master chefs. As I traveled along Provincial Highway 3 toward Neimen, I noticed numerous temples along the way. It’s easy to see just how deeply religious faith is woven into the lives of the local residents.
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◦ Attractions in Neimen
Neimen, formerly known as "Luohanmen," derives its name from a Ming Dynasty scholar-official who, to escape persecution, disguised himself as a monk and established an academy in the area. His secluded retreat was later named "Luohanmen" in his honor.
During the Qing era, Neimen became the stage for a sensational figure in Taiwan’s history—the island’s first "native" emperor, Zhu Yigui. At the time, corruption was rampant among officials, and Zhu Yigui, who shared the same surname as the Ming emperors and had once served under Koxinga, led a rebellion of disgruntled residents in Neimen. Before long, his forces captured the capital of Taiwan Prefecture, and his followers crowned him as the king. However, his reign was short-lived, as internal conflicts led to his capture and execution by Qing forces. Despite his demise, Zhu Yigui's heroic image remained deeply ingrained in the hearts of the locals. To honor his legacy, the people of Neimen built temples and shrines dedicated to him, passing down his story through generations.
◦ Neimen Song Jiang Battle Ritual
The Neimen Song Jiang Battle Ritual originated in the Minnan region of Fujian Province and was brought to Taiwan during the late Ming and early Qing periods, over 300 years ago. Initially, it served as a martial arts training activity for young men in rural villages. During the Japanese colonial era, under strict governance, it evolved into a martial arts performance aimed at entertaining and appeasing deities. After the Kuomintang government relocated to Taiwan, martial arts activities, including the Song Jiang Array, faced even tighter restrictions during the martial law period. As a result, the tradition became closely tied to temple festivals, serving as a cultural and religious performance accompanying divine processions. Neimen, in particular, boasts the most extensive development of Song Jiang Arrays in Taiwan. Despite a population of just over 15,000, the area is home to more than 40 performance troupes. On average, nearly every household has a member involved in preserving and practicing this art form.
Since its inception in 2001, the Kaohsiung Neimen Song Jiang Battle Array event has creatively blended the traditional festival with the National Creative Song Jiang Frontier Competition. This innovative approach merges local culture with new ideas, ensuring that this folk art continues to thrive and flourish. Last year's competition was thrilling, with intense performances that gave me goosebumps. In the end, National University of Tainan secured a second consecutive championship title. This year, could a dark horse emerge to shake up the standings? I can’t wait to find out!
◦ Attractions in Neimen
01｜Neimen Zizhu Temple
In 2024, the grand Wenwu (Civil and Martial) Battle Array gathered at Neimen Zizhu Temple for a magnificent 16-day ceremony.
The temple is dedicated to Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy. Originally, Guanyin served as the protective deity of the Guo family, who sailed to Taiwan during the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty. One day, the incense burner used to worship Guanyin mysteriously flew out and landed on a large tree at the site of the present-day Zizhu Temple. Believing the spot to be a place of great feng shui, the villagers united to build a temple there. Over time, the divine reputation of the temple spread far and wide, attracting countless devotees. Today, Neimen Zizhu Temple has become one of Taiwan's most prominent Guanyin temples.
On the day of the competition, the already lively Zizhu Temple was packed with crowds, bustling with excitement. The sheer number of people made it nearly impossible to get close to the action without considerable effort. his vibrant scene was truly eye-opening, allowing me to witness not only the scale of the event but also the deep cultural and spiritual significance of the Song Jiang Array in Neimen.
Neimen Zizhu Temple Opening Hours: 0500-2100 No. 18, Ln. 115, Zhongzheng Rd., Neimen Dist., Kaohsiung
02｜Nanhai Zizhu Temple
Located 3 kilometers away from Zizhu Temple, the Nanhai Zizhu Temple shares a similar name but offers a more serene environment. The temple’s exterior is adorned with intricate and exquisite carvings, showcasing remarkable craftsmanship. With fewer visitors, I could fully immerse myself in the tranquil atmosphere and truly appreciate the beauty of the artisanship.
Adjacent to the temple is the Song Jiang Weaponry Exhibition Hall, which felt like discovering a hidden treasure! The hall displays weapons and facial masks from the Song Jiang formation. Accompanied by vivid illustrations and detailed descriptions, it vividly brought to mind the sharpness and might of the formation members, brandishing their weapons as they marched into battle.
Nanhai Zizhu Temple Opening Hours: 0500-2100 No. 82, Neipu, Neimen Dist., Kaohsiung
03｜Neimen Shunxian Temple
Nestled by a lake, Neimen Shunxian Temple is dedicated to the worship of Mazu. The temple reaches its busiest season each year between March and April, coinciding with the birthdays of Guanyin and Mazu.
In addition to its ceremonial rituals, the temple’s pilgrim accommodation is a frequent topic of enthusiastic discussion among devotees. Unlike traditional temple accommodations, Shunxian Temple’s Pilgrims’ Lodge, known as "Yixian Villa," resembles a boutique hotel. It has become a sought-after choice for lodging during festive celebrations.
Neimen Shunxian Temple Opening Hours: 0500-2100 No. 8-8, Neimen Dist., Kaohsiung
◦ Restaurants and Snacks in Neimen
01｜The Signature Dishes of Banquet Chefs
When talking about banquet chefs, one cannot overlook Neimen, often referred to as the “hometown of banquet chefs.” The fame of Neimen’s banquet chefs is deeply intertwined with the vibrant local performance troupe culture. To reward the large teams of performers during their rigorous practice sessions, the troupe leaders would prepare hearty meals to nourish the members. What started as simple rice porridge, rice noodles, and stir-fried dishes eventually evolved into lavish feasts, giving rise to a unique banquet culture. The most iconic example of this tradition is the annual Song Jiang Feast. However, enjoying the Song Jiang Feast is no easy feat. Due to the extravagance of the dishes and the limited number of tables, reservations often sell out in an instant the moment bookings open.
In response, quick-thinking banquet chefs have introduced individual meal sets at Song Jiang performance venues. Signature dishes such as Braised Pork, Salt-Baked Prawns, Specialty Shark Fin Soup, Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, and Sakura Shrimp Oil Rice have been conveniently downsized into single servings. This allows even solo diners to savor the rich flavors of a traditional banquet and experience the authentic culture of a Neimen feast!
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◦ Other Areas in Kaohsiung
➤ Cieding | The Hometown of Mullet Roe
➤ Gangshan | The Only Remaining Bamboo Basket Festival in Taiwan
➤ Zuoying | A Charming Ancient City with Rich Naval Heritage