The season of golden trumpet trees is approaching! The blooming period of these beautiful trees is short, lasting only about three weeks on average. Often, they bloom just as the cherry blossoms are still lingering. However, once it rains, the blossoms quickly fall. Every year, from late February to early March, I enjoy visiting the Chiayi and Changhua regions to admire the golden sea of flowers in full bloom during early spring!
During this time, a visit to the Kengneikeng Forest Trail in Ershui, Changhua, offers the chance to walk through a golden tunnel adorned with vibrant yellow trumpet trees. This is one of the ways to truly experience the charm of Ershui.
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◦ The History of Ershui
Ershui, formerly known as "Erbashui," is the southernmost township of Changhua. The name itself suggests a close connection to water sources. This area is traversed by the Erfen Canal, an essential irrigation channel connecting the main village waterways, with its water sourced from the Babao Canal, which was completed during the Kangxi era. Villagers combined the numbers "two" and "eight" from these water sources to name the area "Erbashui." After Taiwan's restoration, it was officially renamed Ershui, and its abundant water resources continue to nourish the entire plain.
◦ Ershui International Water Running Festival
Every November, as the harvest season shifts to winter storage, people gather at the Babao Canal for a unique local celebration known as the "Water Running Festival," which has evolved in recent years into a cultural celebration.
The Water Running Festival originated from the Water Ceremony, which dates back over 300 years to the Kangxi era. At that time, Shi Shibang, a military commander, encountered numerous challenges while constructing the Babao Canal. Finally, a man named Mr. Lin assisted by offering detailed plans and guidance, which enabled the successful completion of the canal. In gratitude for Mr. Lin’s generous help, the villagers set up a ceremony at the canal head to honor him. They also appoint a skilled water guide, who is dressed in traditional straw raincoats, straw sandals, and a red headband, carrying offerings. As the sluice gates open, the guide dashes forward, "running the water" as the current rushes behind him—a central feature of the ceremony.
Due to a typhoon, last year's Water Running Festival made history by taking place on land for the first time. However, the 300-year-old blessing ritual continued uninterrupted. The highlight of the event was the ceremony, which left a strong impression on me. In this event, representatives carried Ershui's famous local produce, such as pomelos, guavas, and eggplants, in baskets. The community eagerly participated, gathering the produce in a lively celebration of the bountiful harvest—a true festival of gratitude and joy.
◦ Attractions in Ershui
01｜Kengneikeng Forest Trail
The Kengneikeng Forest Trail was once an ancient pilgrimage route used by residents traveling to Shoutian Temple in Nantou. Today, it serves as a forest trail connecting Ershui in Changhua with Mingjian in Nantou. Each year, from February to March, as the cherry blossoms linger, the golden trumpet trees eagerly bloom, creating a stunning contrast of pink and gold that attracts many visitors to this scenic spot.
Kengneikeng Forest Trail No. 36, Kengnei Rd., Ershui Township, Changhua
02｜Ershui Old Street
Unlike the typical image of an old street, Ershui Old Street is lively and bustling, lined with tea shops and snack stalls that bring a vibrant sense of daily life to the area. It’s the liveliest part of Ershui. As I wandered into the old street, the historic Taipower Ershui Service Center, with its red brick architecture, immediately caught my eye. Watching locals step inside, talking with staff through display windows covered in informational posters, I felt a sense of timeless tranquility.
Ershui Old Street Guangwen Rd., Ershui Township, Changhua
03｜Babao Canal
Completed during the Kangxi era, the Babao Canal is one of Taiwan’s oldest irrigation canals, along with the Tongle Canal in Tainan and the Long’en Canal in Hsinchu, collectively known as Taiwan's three great ancient irrigation systems. Now, 300 years later, under the impact of extreme weather, the Babao Canal plays a crucial role as part of the flood management system.
04｜Mr. Lin Temple
In the early stages of constructing the Babao Canal, the swift currents of the Zhuoshui River made it impossible to draw water directly. The challenge was to find a suitable location upstream to divert river water into the canal system. During this time, a man known only as Mr. Lin appeared and provided critical hydraulic diagrams, enabling the project to overcome this obstacle. In gratitude to Mr. Lin, who declined any reward and never revealed his full name, later generations built the "Mr. Lin Temple" at the channels of the Babao Canal as a tribute to his contributions.
Mr. Lin Temple No. 227, Sec. 2, Yuanji Rd., Ershui Township, Changhu
05｜Yuanquan Railway Station
Yuanquan is a sparsely populated village, and if not for its unique train station, travelers would rarely venture here. Yuanquan Station is one of the oldest stations on the Jiji Branch Line of Taiwan Railways. This line was initially used to transport timber, but as the logging industry declined, it gradually shifted to passenger services. After the devastating 921 earthquake, the station suffered severe damage and was closed. Following restoration, the revived Yuanquan Station is now connected to a bike path, making it a peaceful and pleasant stop for visitors exploring Ershui.
Yuanquan Railway Station Yingyi Rd., Ershui Township, Changhua
◦ Restaurants and Snacks in Ershui
01｜Daming Stir-Fried Noodle
The name "Flame Noodles" isn’t just for show! After placing my order, I didn’t wait at my seat; instead, I stood nearby, watching as the noodles were stir-fried over a roaring flame. First, pork lard and shredded pork are sautéed to release their aroma, followed by freshly chopped chives and soy sauce, which are added to the pan to infuse a rich fragrance. Then, noodles are tossed in and given a vigorous, skillful stir. The main attraction is when flames leap into the pan, sealing the sauce and smoky flavor into every strand of noodle!
Daming Stir-Fried Noodle Opening Hours: 1030-1430, closed on Monday. No. 724, Sec. 3, Yuanji Rd., Ershui Township, Changhua
◦ Flying Over Taiwan
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◦ Other Areas in Changhua
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