Yunlin ◦ Huwei | The Hometown of Glove Puppetry | TAIWAN 368-17

by YU-LING

最後更新/Last Updated:2024-12-23

Perhaps because I had spent some leisurely time in other towns in Yunlin, when I arrived in Huwei, the second-largest town in the region, it felt as though time sped up, and I had to quicken my pace to keep up with everyone.

Huwei, a town centered on agriculture, once earned the title of the "Sugar Capital" due to its thriving sugar industry. Thanks to the efforts of glove puppetry master Huang Hai-dai and his son, Huang Chun-hsiung, Huwei is also known as the "Hometown of Glove Puppetry." In addition to the sugar factory and glove puppetry, the wooden buildings from the Japanese colonial era reflect the town's rich cultural heritage.

◦ The History of Huwei

The history of Huwei can be traced back to the Dutch colonial period. According to historical documents, the area was inhabited by an indigenous tribe called the "Fovorlang." Scholars believe that the pronunciation of "Fovorlang" might be the origin of the name "Huwei."

However, I personally prefer a more mystical legend. It is said that Zheng Cheng-gong, a renowned military leader, was asked by the local residents to kill a tiger that was threatening their safety. The tiger, unable to evade Zheng Cheng-gong’s swift strike, had its tail severed. From then on, the area was named "Huwei," meaning "Tiger Tail." As for the tailless tiger, it never dared to harm the people again.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the rise of the sugar industry, Huwei developed rapidly and became one of Taiwan’s most significant sugar production centers. During this time, the establishment of sugar factories transformed Huwei into a prosperous town.

01|The Monument for the Introduction of the Sugarcane Variety

Due to low yields and widespread pest issues associated with the old sugarcane varieties, the Taiwan Sugar Corporation's Huwei Sugar Factory has introduced a new variety. Sugarcane was introduced to Taiwan from South Africa in 1947. This variety proved to be highly adaptable to Taiwan's soil and climate, resulting in abundant crops with a high sugar content. Its widespread cultivation greatly increased sugar production and generated substantial foreign exchange revenue.

In recognition of the Taiwan Sugar Corporation's achievements, the Chinese Agricultural Association commissioned a sculptor to design a statue and monument. The monument was erected in the garden of the Huwei Sugar Factory in December 1955, and an unveiling ceremony took place in 1956.

➤ Photo credits and textual references:午夜懷舊雜譚

◦ Attractions in Huwei
01|Qingpu Cypress Grove

Located near the Huwei Iron Bridge, the Qingpu Cypress Grove was originally the private garden of a former magistrate of Yunlin County; however, it is now open to the public.

During the autumn and winter seasons, the bald cypress trees turn golden, creating a picturesque landscape. However, my favorite aspect is the fallen leaves on the pond. The delicate, feather-like leaves contribute an air of mystery and enhance the enchantment of this area.

Qingpu Cypress Grove

Opening Hours: 0930-1700
No. 2-29, Qingpu, Huwei Township, Yunlin
02|Huwei Sugar Factory

Established in 1907, the Huwei Sugar Factory quickly became the largest sugar producer in Taiwan, achieving this status just one year after its construction. At that time, it was also recognized as the largest sugar factory in the Far East. This impressive achievement earned Huwei the title of "Sugar Capital."

Today, the Huwei Sugar Factory is the only facility in Taiwan that still utilizes narrow-gauge trains to transport sugarcane. It is also one of only two remaining operational sugar factories in Taiwan. I was incredibly lucky during my visit—just as I arrived, the narrow-gauge train passed by! This rare sight can only be witnessed during the factory’s operating season, which runs from December to March each year.

Huwei Sugar Factory

Opening Hours:0800-1700, closed on weekends.
No. 2, Zhongshan Rd., Huwei Township, Yunlin
03|Japanese-Style Dormitories

Within the sugar factory, there are many wooden structures from the Japanese colonial period. Among them, only 12 dormitory buildings remain, situated in Tongxin Park.

After World War II, the sugar industry declined, leading to downsizing in the Taiwan Sugar Corporation. Employees and their families moved away in search of better opportunities, leaving the dormitories vacant. Due to years of neglect, many of these structures have fallen into disrepair. This makes me wonder, does every old building need to be preserved?

Japanese-Style Dormitories

Minzhu 5th Rd., Huwei Township, Yunlin
04|Yunlin Hand Puppet Museum

The Yunlin Hand Puppet Museum was originally an administrative building from the Japanese colonial period. After World War II, it was repurposed as a district office, but by 1990, it had fallen into disuse. During the 1997 National Arts Festival, the historical significance of the Huwei District Office was rediscovered. Thanks to the efforts of local advocates, the building was saved from demolition and given a new purpose: to promote glove puppetry.

The museum is divided into several sections, including a permanent exhibition area, a special exhibition area, an audiovisual room, and a detention center from the original district office. Beyond the lifelike puppets, which gave me goosebumps, the administrative documents and cramped rooms in the detention center ignited my imagination.

Yunlin Hand Puppet Museum

Opening Hours:1000-1800, closed on Monday and Tuesday.
No. 498, Sec. 1, Linsen Rd., Huwei Township, Yunlin
05|Huwei Joint Government Office Building

Located across from the Yunlin Hand Puppetry Museum, the Huwei Joint Government Office Building is an architectural relic from the Japanese colonial period. This four-story watchtower once played crucial roles in firefighting, communications, air defense, and military command.

After renovations, the building welcomed Starbucks and Eslite Bookstore, filling the space with the rich aroma of coffee. This fusion of contemporary life and historical preservation allows visitors to appreciate the carefully preserved historical details.

Huwei Joint Government Office Building

Opening Hours
Weekdays: 1100-2100
Weekends: 1030-2130
No. 491, Sec. 1, Linsen Rd., Huwei Township, Yunlin
06|Yunlin Story House

Not far from the Huwei Joint Government Office Building, the Yunlin Story House is a wooden structure from the Japanese colonial era. After careful restoration, it has become a cultural platform dedicated to sharing local stories and hosting various activities.

I typically prefer to explore freely and am not fond of guided tours; however, one of the Story House staff members changed that perspective for me. Although I couldn’t see her facial expressions behind her mask, her sincere and emotional storytelling brought the old tales to life.

Yunlin Story House

Opening Hours:1000-1800, closed on Monday and Tuesday.
No. 528, Sec. 1, Linsen Rd., Huwei Township, Yunlin
◦ Restaurants and Snacks in Huwei
01|The Nameless Fried Oyster Fritter

Located at the intersection of Zhongzheng Road and Minquan Road, this nameless fried oyster fritter stand comes highly recommended by my friends from Huwei.

I arrived around 3 p.m., and there was already a long line of locals—a clear indication of how popular this stand is in Huwei. Fresh out of the fryer, the fritters feature a crispy outer layer encasing plump, sweet oysters. It’s no surprise that this spot attracts so many people willing to wait!

The Nameless Fried Oyster Fritter

Opening Hours: 0700-1800, closed on Tuesday and Wednesday. 
No. 39, Zhongzheng Rd., Huwei Township, Yunlin
◦ Flying Over Taiwan

*All aerial photography operations are conducted within legal airspace. During flight, regulations stipulated by the Civil Aviation Law are strictly followed, maintaining the required distance from buildings and crowds. Zooming and post-production techniques are used to ensure compliance, making the flights fully legal.
*Anyone citing these images and text must provide proper attribution. Unauthorized or illegal use of the images and text is prohibited and may result in legal liability.

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