TAIWAN 368-13 | Pingtung ◦ Linluo | A Village Full of Hakka Charm

by YU-LING

The first impression Linluo gave me was how warm and united the people of this town are! Since the singer Julia Peng hails from Linluo, when she released her first Hakka album, the locals celebrated by hanging red cloth strips with creative Hakka text in their shops and homes. Even though I don't understand Hakka, I could feel how proud the residents are of this Golden Melody Award-winning singer!

Linluo is small and doesn't have many tourist attractions, but it gives me a sense of being able to live well on this land.

◦ History of Linluo

In its early days, Linluo was the living area of the Siraya people. Now, it is predominantly inhabited by Hakka people. During the Kangxi period, Han Chinese settlers came to cultivate the land. While building irrigation channels, they discovered many large turtles. They believed that where large turtles appear, there must also be qilin (Chinese unicorns) nearby, signifying a land of good fortune. Thus, they named it "Linluo Village" (麟落庄). Later, due to concerns that the word "luo" (落) implied decline, the name was changed to " Linluo" (麟洛).

Additionally, Linluo is part of the "Front Encampment" of the "Liudui." About 300 years ago, Hakka people who came to Taiwan moved south to cultivate the southern regions. From the Laonong River in the north to the Linbian River in the south, many Hakka villages began to flourish on this land. In 1721, during Zhu Yigui’s rebellion, representatives of the villages believed that organizing militia groups was necessary for self-defense. After the conflict subsided, due to the contributions of the "Six Encampments" militia, they either bought or petitioned the Qing court for more land, leading to the development of the "Liudui" centered around Zhutian Township.

◦ Attractions in Linluo
01|Cihai Temple

While riding my scooter and exploring the streets, the magnificent and impressive exterior of Cihai Temple caught my eye, standing out amidst the rural surroundings. The temple is devoted to Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy, who was initially worshipped as a household deity by the local Hsieh family. Later, the inhabitants of Xiazhujia pooled their resources to construct the temple, which was originally constructed in 1965. The current appearance of the temple is the outcome of a reconstruction completed in 1993.

Cihai Temple

No. 43, Changchun Ln., Yanhe St., Linluo Township, Pingtung
02|Yanhe Street and Baoshutang

The presence of names like "Baoshutang," "Dongshantang," and "Anjintang" hints at a strong connection with the Hsieh family, especially with the Eastern Jin Dynasty's esteemed official, Hsieh An. Among these, Baoshutang has an interesting backstory that I find particularly meaningful. According to the Shishuo Xinyu, there was a day when Hsieh An posed a question: “Why do parents always want their children to stand out?” While no one could provide an answer, only the renowned Eastern Jin general Hsieh Xuan responded: “Parents hope their children will become outstanding, just as they wish for orchids and jade trees to flourish in their own courtyards.” From then on, "Baoshutang" became a distinguished title for the Hsieh family, reflecting their strong presence in Linluo.

Hsieh Jiuli, the 13th-generation ancestor of the Hsieh family who came to Taiwan during the Qing Dynasty, settled in Xiazhujia, now Yanhe Street. As the population grew, he built a village here, making the entire area of Xiazhujia a central hub for the Hsieh family’s activities.

03|Yanhe No. 45

As I wandered into Yanhe Street, a captivating sign outside a residential house immediately drew my gaze. The signboard, adorned with uniquely crafted and elongated characters, emanates a feeling of harmonizing with and diverging from the surrounding environment. It encapsulates a rebellious yet harmonious atmosphere that mirrors the owner's individuality. This dessert shop, specializing in tangyuan (sweet rice balls), is currently on a long hiatus. However, according to the owner, this is just a pause, not a full stop. I can't help but look forward to what exciting continuation the owner, who carries forward the family craft and local memories, will bring in the future.

Yanhe No. 45

No. 45, Yanhe St., Linluo Township, Pingtung
04|Linluo Zheng Chenggong Temple

Linluo Zheng Chenggong Temple is the most renowned temple in Linluo, serving as a central place for community interaction and relaxation. The temple was originally built during the Guangxu period. It is said that the temple's Zheng Chenggong memorial tablet was initially enshrined by Xu Junliang, Zheng Chenggong’s logistics officer. In the tenth year of Guangxu (1884), after the completion of the Linluo Zheng Chenggong Temple, the memorial tablet previously enshrined by Xu Junliang was moved to the temple. Since then, local prayers and offerings have been conducted at this site.

Linluo Zheng Chenggong Temple

No. 170, Chenggong Rd., Linluo Township, Pingtung
05|Linluo Wholesale Fruit and Vegetable Market

When visiting a township, aside from temples, one of my favorite places to explore is the local market. On the way back, with the weather being unbearably hot, seeing the coconuts at the entrance of the wholesale fruit and vegetable market felt like a blessing. After refreshing myself with coconut water, I took a stroll through the market. Unlike traditional markets, this wholesale market felt like a battlefield. Fruits and vegetables were like ammunition, being loaded onto trucks in bulk, ready to be dispatched to various locations to capture the hearts and stomachs of the public.

Linluo Wholesale Fruit and Vegetable Market

Opening Hours: 0730-1530
No. 673, Zhongshan Rd., Linluo Township, Pingtung
◦ Flying Over Taiwan

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◦ Other Areas in Pingtung

➤ Nanzhou | Precious Memories of Taiwan's Sugar Industry

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