Taoyuan ◦ Zhongli | The Ever-Gleaming Charm of the Military Villages | TAIWAN 368–19

by YU-LING

While I was looking up some information about local shops, I stumbled upon an article titled “Ten Traits of People from Zhongli You Need to Know.” Three points made me laugh out loud because they perfectly captured how I feel about the people from Zhongli:
“Wherever they go, they proudly declare they are from Zhongli!”
“They believe Zhongli is more developed than Taoyuan!”
“The rice noodle is the pride of Zhongli!”
As a city that seamlessly blends history, culture, and modernization, Zhongli provides its residents with ample reasons to proudly declare, “I’m from Zhongli, and I’m proud of it!”

◦ The History of Zhongli

Zhongli's history dates back to the Qing Dynasty when it was known as meaning valley between streams, which reflects its geographical environment. During the 18th century, under the reign of Emperor Qianlong, immigrants from Fujian and Guangdong began settling in Jianzaili. As the Han Chinese population grew, the indigenous Atayal and Ketagalan peoples, who originally lived there were forced to relocate to the mountains.

After the Chinese Civil War in 1949, the Nationalist government relocated a significant number of soldiers and their families to Zhongli. This influx of immigrants further transformed the local population. Many of these new residents came from Yunnan, Zhejiang, and Fujian, establishing numerous military villages in areas such as Longgang and Neili. The food culture they brought with them became one of the main reasons for Zhongli’s unique culinary style.

With Taiwan's rapid economic growth, the establishment of the Zhongli Industrial Park in the 1970s led to a significant increase in labor demand. After Taiwan opened its doors to foreign workers in the 1990s, many people from Southeast Asia migrated to Zhongli seeking better job opportunities. Their arrival not only enriched Zhongli's ethnic diversity but also introduced new cultures and created unique street scenes distinct from other towns.

◦ Attractions in Zhongli
01|Xpark

Opened in 2020, Xpark is the first international branch of Yokohama Hakkeijima in Japan, and was developed over five years. This aquarium uses cutting-edge technology to meticulously control the temperature, humidity, scents, and sounds best suited for over 400 species of aquatic and terrestrial animals. This innovative design allows both the animals to thrive and visitors to fully immerse themselves in a 360-degree exploration experience.

Among the 13 themed exhibit areas, my favorites are “Rainforest Adventure,” “Freezing Zone,” and “Healing Jellyfish Exhibit.” When you step into “Rainforest Adventure,” you are surrounded by trees and wildlife thriving on land, in the water, and in the treetops. It instantly evokes memories of the three days I once spent in the Amazon rainforest!

The design of “Freezing Zone” is also commendable. The flowing cold air and 360-degree transparent tunnels provide a stunning, immersive view of seals swimming around.

My favorite creatures in the aquarium are jellyfish and garden eels, and the “Healing Jellyfish Exhibit,” which is specially designed for a visual experience, fully satisfied my fascination. Through the reflection of boundless mirrors and the ever-changing rainbow lights synchronized with the music, the graceful movement of the jellyfish looked even more magical. The jellyfish babies nearby, something I had never seen in other aquariums, were another surprising and delightful highlight!

After exploring aquatic life from all over the world, I found myself returning to “Formosa,” where I spent a long time mesmerized by the massive 8-meter-deep aquarium. This exhibit, themed around the Taiwan Strait and Bashi Channel, showcases a breathtaking underwater world where silver pomfrets, leopard sharks, and stingrays glide gracefully together, creating an unforgettable image in my mind.

Xpark

Opening Hours: 1000-1800
No. 105, Chunde Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan
02|Longgang Branch Taoyuan Public Library

Before even stepping inside the Longgang Branch Taoyuan Public Library, I was captivated by its meaningful architecture. This diamond-level green building looks like an open book waiting to be read when viewed from the southwest.

Upon entering, the soaring wooden structures envelop the entire building, while the expansive glass windows allow sunlight to flood the space, creating a warm and comfortable atmosphere, like reading beneath the shade of a majestic tree.

Longgang Branch Taoyuan Public Library

Opening Hours
Tuesday to Friday: 0830-2100
Sunday to Monday:0830-1700
No. 100, Taimao 1st St., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan
03|Longgang Playground

Located at the border between Zhongli and Pingzhen, Longgang Playground is a significant military training site. Upholding the spirit of "National Defense for All" and promoting a strong relationship between the military and civilians, it is also open to the public and has become one of the local residents' favorite spots for exercise and leisure.

On the side near the command platform, bold slogans such as "Promote the Revolutionary Spirit of Whampoa" and "Practice Loyalty and Discipline in the Military" are prominently displayed on the walls. Once guiding principles for past soldiers, these slogans have now become popular photo spots for visitors.

Longgang Playground

Ln. 460, Sec. 3, Longgang Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan
04|Matsu New Village Cultural and Creative Park

When I first heard of “Matsu” New Village, I assumed it was named because the residents were from Matsu. Interestingly, it is quite the opposite! The village was established following Soong Mei-ling's visit to Matsu, during which she proposed constructing homes for the families of soldiers to help stabilize morale.

The earliest houses were completed in 1957, and over time, the community expanded to include an activity center, auditorium, parks, sports fields, and pavilions, forming a self-sufficient military village. After the residents gradually relocated to the newly rebuilt Lukuang Fifth Village, the Taoyuan City Government began preserving these villages. Matsu New Village became the second military settlement in Taiwan to be preserved under the "Cultural Heritage Preservation Act," following the Four Four South Village in Taipei.

Unlike other military villages, Matsu New Village took a "museum-like" approach to its revitalization. In addition to preserving historical artifacts, it has carved its unique path through film and media promotion. As I walked through the Matsu New Village Story Exhibition, the old photographs and vintage movies displayed on the walls transported me back to Taiwan 70 years ago—a time that felt both foreign and familiar.

Matsu New Village Cultural and Creative Park

Opening Hours: 0900-2100, closed on Monday.
No. 155, Longji 2nd St., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan
05|Renhai Temple

Renhai Temple, constructed in 1826 during the Daoguang era of the Qing Dynasty, is dedicated to Mazu and is one of the oldest temples in Zhongli. Due to its well-maintained condition, there are few visible traces of its long history from the exterior.

Inside, amidst the continuous flow of worshippers, I observed how the temple has "kept up with the times." The electronic donation box, adorned with charming, cartoon-like deities, added a modern and playful twist to the tradition of making donations.

Renhai Temple

Opening Hours: 0500-2100
No. 198, Yanping Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan
06|Zhongping Road Story House

Built in 1930, the Zhongping Road Story House is a charming Japanese-style building situated in the vibrant Zhongping Shopping District. During the Japanese colonial period, it served as housing for Japanese residents in Taiwan. After the war, it was repurposed as a dormitory for government employees. In 2010, the Story House was designated as a historical building, and it officially opened to the public in 2015 as Taoyuan City's first urban story museum.

Walking from the entrance to the zashiki—the best-lit and most ventilated area of a traditional Japanese house, typically used to welcome guests—the interior decor enveloped me in a rich, traditional Japanese ambiance.

Zhongping Road Story House

Opening Hours: 1000-1700, closed on Monday. 
No. 99, Fuxing Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan
◦ Restaurants and Snacks in Zhongli
01|Zhang Lao Wang National Flag House

Located in Zhongzhen Market, the Zhang Lao Wang National Flag House is renowned for its distinctive Yunnan rice noodles (mi gan) and its strong sense of patriotism. The shop’s “patriotic spirit” is evident from a distance, thanks to a prominent display of fluttering national flags, which makes it stand out among the numerous rice noodle shops in the area.

The founder of the shop, Zhang Laowang, is a descendant of the Yunnan-Burma Guomindang Army. His father was a guerrilla leader during the war, and the national flag sewn by his mother was used as a symbol of identification. In the event of an unfortunate incident, soldiers would place the flag by his side so that his family could find him. This piece of family history profoundly influenced Zhang Laowang, inspiring him to use the national flag as the primary decoration for his noodle shop. Every year on Double Ten Day, he holds a flag-raising ceremony and adorns the area with tens of thousands of flags, creating an awe-inspiring "Flag Tunnel."

Inside the shop, the rice noodles are as impressive as the flags outside. I ordered the rice noodles with meat and egg. Despite a thin layer of oil floating on the broth, the flavor was surprisingly light and refreshing, with tender slices of meat and a soft-boiled egg as toppings. Halfway through the meal, I mixed in the egg, and the runny yolk made the silky rice noodles even more satisfying.

Zhang Lao Wang National Flag House

Opening Hours: 0500-1500, closed on Thursday. 
No. 215, Longping Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan
02|Yi-Shin Ice Cream Store

Yi-Shin Ice Cream Store is a long-standing dessert shop in Zhongli, with over 60 years of history. The two ice makers at the entrance, which show the signs of age, are essential to the shop's lasting success. Unlike contemporary high-speed ice machines, these older models better preserve the flavors of the ingredients, making the shaved ice richer and more flavorful.

Now in its third generation of ownership, Yi-Shin Ice Cream Store has managed to retain its unique charm while evolving with the times. Over 20 years ago, when mango shaved ice became a huge hit across Taiwan, Yi-Shin swiftly adapted by introducing its own “Mango Delight” series. This beloved line features various combinations of fresh mango, mango-flavored shaved ice, condensed milk, fresh milk, and tapioca pearls, and remains a favorite to this day.

Yi-Shin Ice Cream Store

Opening Hours: 0900-2200
No. 15, Heping St., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan
03|Rongshu Xia Shaved Ice

Not far from Yi-Shin Ice Cream Store is Rongshu Xia Shaved Ice, a well-established ice shop with a history spanning over 70 years.

Their specialty is mung bean ice, made with authentic ingredients. Each bite is filled with mung beans, making it a nostalgic favorite for many people in Zhongli who have enjoyed it since childhood. However, as a mango lover, I couldn't resist ordering the Mango Double Delight. The base consists of fresh mango, followed by a layer of plain shaved ice topped with condensed milk, then another layer of mango, and finally a crown of mango-flavored shaved ice. It’s an indulgent and addictive combination! When it comes to mango shaved ice, if I had to choose between the two shops, I would select Rongshu Xia. Their preparation of the mango is more delicate, with fewer fibers, resulting in a much smoother and more enjoyable texture.

Rongshu Xia Shaved Ice

Opening Hours: 1030-2200
No. 83, Zhongshan Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan
◦ Flying Over Taiwan

*All aerial photography operations are conducted within legal airspace. During flight, regulations stipulated by the Civil Aviation Law are strictly followed, maintaining the required distance from buildings and crowds. Zooming and post-production techniques are used to ensure compliance, making the flights fully legal.
*Anyone citing these images and text must provide proper attribution. Unauthorized or illegal use of the images and text is prohibited and may result in legal liability.

◦ Other Areas in Taoyuan

➤ Guanyin | The Land of Lotuses with Deep Ties to Guanyin Bodhisattva

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