In the past, when I visited Rome, I was enamored with the Colosseum that I knew from textbooks. However, after exploring it, my attention would drift to the nearby shops, leaving me with a fragmented impression of the "town." It was during my visit to Jordan that I discovered Jerash, often referred to as the "Pompeii of the Middle East," which is even more "Roman" than Rome itself. This experience completed my perception of a Roman ancient city.
Located 48 kilometers from Amman, Jerash is the best-preserved Roman city within the borders of Jordan. After being seized by the Roman Empire in 65 BC, Jerash rose to prominence as one of the empire's ten major cities. Its vast scale required almost three hours to traverse on foot. Even though a devastating earthquake in the 8th century caused extensive damage, the city's former grandeur and expansiveness are still readily apparent.
Perhaps the most peculiar sight in Jerash involves locals inserting spoons into the crevices of the colonnades and then shaking the columns, causing the spoons to quiver slightly. This demonstration is intended to showcase the earthquake resistance of the columns. However, one cannot help but wonder if such treatment is appropriate for these millennia-old relics.
Contents
◦ The Five Most Memorable Sites
01｜Arch of Hadrian
The majestic Arch of Hadrian stands at the entrance, having welcomed countless individuals over the centuries. The arch nearly succumbed to destruction in the massive earthquake of 749 AD and was not restored until 2006. One can clearly distinguish the restoration work from the coloration of the stones on the arch.
02｜Hippodrome
After passing through the arch, you will find the ancient hippodrome for chariot races and horse racing competitions on your right-hand side. Due to incomplete restoration, only half of what was once a grand oval stadium remains. However, it is still quite a sight! However, if we're talking about a hippodrome alone, the Roman Colosseum surpasses all others in terms of completeness and spectacle.
03｜Oval Plaza
The most eye-catching relic in the entire ancient city is the Oval Plaza. Here, you can view the extensive ruins and enjoy a panoramic view of the distant town.
04｜Cardo Maximus
The allure of the 800-meter-long Cardo Maximus lies in the fact that these columns are not completely joined together. For earthquake resistance, each column was left with some gaps, a method designed for earthquakes.
05｜Temple of Artemis
The Temple of Artemis, dedicated to the moon goddess and revered as a protector in Roman culture, commands attention from its strategic location on the hill, making it the most significant structure in Jerash.
JERASH Opening Hours: 0800-2000 Ticket: 10 JOD（10/2023） You can enter by using Jordan Pass.
◦ Restaurant: Chessy Grill
Chessy Grill, located not far from Jerash, is a specialty shop for sandwiches and burgers. Their submarine sandwich with grilled chicken breast is juicy and tender, providing a satisfying meal that is suitable for the appetite of an average man.
◦ How to Get to Jerash
From downtown Amman, you can take an Uber to the North Bus Station, with the fare approximately being 2.60 JOD (07/2023). Just mention to the driver that your destination is Jerash, and they will take you straight to the appropriate bus.
The one-way bus fare between Amman and Jerash costs around 1 JOD to 1.40 JOD (07/2023). For the return trip, you can catch a bus at the same place where you were dropped off.
