Miaoli ◦ Yuanli | The Centuries-Old Craft of Rush Weaving | TAIWAN 368–18

by YU-LING

最後更新/Last Updated:2024-12-23

Yuanli Township is situated in the southwestern region of Miaoli, bordered to the north by Tongxiao, to the west by the Taiwan Strait, to the east by Huoyan Mountain, and to the south by the Da'an River. It is one of the earliest developed areas in Miaoli. Known as the "Granary of Miaoli," Yuanli is renowned for its abundant agricultural resources. The cultivation of rice and rush grass, along with innovative craftsmanship, gives Yuanli a unique charm that sets it apart from other towns.

◦ The History of Yuanli

Originally home to the Taokas tribe, one of Taiwan’s indigenous peoples, Yuanli saw its development by Han settlers in the mid-17th century when Ming dynasty general Liu Guoxuan led his people to cultivate the land, beginning the area's Han Chinese development. The name "Yuanli" is deeply rooted in its historical background. It was once called "Wanrie," the name of a Taokas settlement. Over time, the Hakka pronunciation of "Wanrie" evolved to sound like "Fangli," and the name was subsequently phonetically translated to "Yuanli," which is the town's current name.

◦ Attractions in Yuanli
01|Yuangang Rainbow Bridge

When I arrived at the Yuangang Rainbow Bridge, I was struck by the sight of the silt-filled riverbed and the boats and buildings that appeared to have been abandoned long ago. It was a bittersweet reminder of how much had changed. Yuangang Fishing Harbor, once a bustling hub of both fishing and tourism, used to host lively fish auctions every morning, with the energetic calls of vendors echoing through the air. However, with the changing landscape, what once required dredging every one to two years now needs clearing every two to three months. This increased frequency has made it progressively more challenging for fishing boats to enter and exit the port, resulting in a gradual decline in its functionality.

Even so, by sunset and into the evening, people still gather here to watch the sea as the sun sets and to stroll along the Yuangang Rainbow Bridge, which lights up the night.

Yuangang Rainbow Bridge

No. 133, Zhongshan Rd., Yuanli Township, Miaoli
02|Painted Rice Fields in Yuanli

The most captivating sight in Yuanli for me was the painted rice fields, where the paddy fields themselves become a canvas! I arrived around 7 a.m. to find a farmer diligently placing rice plants of various colors into the field.

Standing at the edge, I couldn't quite discern the picture that the different shades of rice plants were forming. It wasn't until I captured an aerial view with a drone that I revealed the lifelike image of Mazu and the powerful strokes of Chinese calligraphy. I was amazed—how incredible that the farmers can create such art in the fields!

Over the past 20 years, constant improvements have been made in the art of rice painting. What originally utilized only purple rice now includes white, black, and yellow varieties, enabling the creation of more intricate designs. This year, the themes are centered around Mazu, featuring activities such as Mazu-themed rice art, rice food crafting, and rush weaving, which offer participants with a deeper connection to the local culture.

Painted Rice Fields in Yuanli

Opening Hours: 0900-1630, closed on Monday.
No. 99, Wanli Rd., Yuanli Township, Miaoli
03|Rush Grass Culture Center

Rush weaving is a vital traditional industry in Yuanli. The establishment of the Rush Grass Culture Center, the formation of the Taiwan Yuan-Li Handiwork Association, and the sale of woven products on the old street all demonstrate the significant impact that rush weaving has had on the local community. Rush grass primarily grows in the wetlands of the lower reaches of the Da’an, Fangli, and Yuanli Rivers. Its flexibility and durability make it an excellent material for crafting straw mats and hats.

During the Japanese colonial period, the rush weaving industry became one of Taiwan's top five agricultural exports, surpassed only by sugar and rice in value. Yuanli’s rush weaving skills reached their peak during this time, not only bringing significant income for the region and challenging traditional gender roles. Women who excelled in rush weaving often received more respect than men during this period.

The Rush Grass Culture Center was established to preserve this traditional craft and promote its cultural value. The museum features several exhibition areas, including displays on rush grass ecology, weaving techniques, and a section on the culture of straw hats and mats. Visitors can observe the entire process, from cultivating the grass to crafting intricate woven items, highlighting the delicate artistry of rush weaving.

Rush Grass Culture Center

Opening Hours: 0900-1700, closed on Monday.
No. 99, Wanli Rd., Yuanli Township, Miaoli
04|Taiwan Yuan-Li Handiwork Association

If you want to see how rush weaving is preserved livingly, the Taiwan Yuan-Li Handiwork Association is the place to visit! On my way to Shanjiao Elementary School, I noticed a woman wearing a traditional bamboo hat, skillfully shaping rush grass into beautiful fan forms in the square next to the temple. Curious, I approached her to inquire about her work, and she explained that she was drying the grass.

Following the directions, I arrived at the Taiwan Yuan-Li Handiwork Association. On one side, the administrative staff were busy managing operations, while on the other, craftswomen diligently graded the rush materials. Everyone was collaborating, united in their efforts to preserve and promote the art of rush weaving.

Taiwan Yuan-Li Handiwork Association

Opening Hours: 0900-1200, 1300-1600, closed on Tuesday.
No. 378, Shanjiau, Yuanli Township, Miaoli
05|Shanjiao Elementary School

In 1898, Yuanli Public Elementary School was established, serving the districts of both Yuanli and Shanjiao. However, due to the distance, few children from Shanjiao were able to attend school in Yuanli. After local residents submitted petitions, a branch school was set up at the Shanjiao Factory of the Yuanli Mat and Hat Company. In 1916, this branch became an independent institution known as Shanjiao Public Elementary School.

The dormitories we see today were constructed to provide housing for teachers and officials. Their elegant architectural style, well-ventilated design, wooden window frames, and tiled roofs make them a significant example for studying Japanese colonial-era architecture.

Since I visited on a weekday, I was unable to enter the dorms to fully experience the atmosphere. However, seeing event banners hanging outside was a relief, knowing that this beautiful structure was still being utilized.

Shanjiao Elementary School

No. 47, Jiushe, Yuanli Township, Miaoli
06|Jinliangxing Brick Factory

Located in the Shanjiao community, Jinliangxing Brick Factory boasts a history of over 50 years and is the oldest tunnel kiln factory in Miaoli, renowned for its production of a diverse range of brick and tile products. As times changed, the factory gradually transformed into a tourist attraction that combines leisure and education. It still retains traditional brick-making techniques, making it a platform for promoting local industries.

Perhaps because it was a weekday, I was able to enter the brick factory, but I couldn’t find anyone to purchase a ticket from. The expansive park felt almost deserted, as if I were the only person there. Wandering through the empty factory in search of a ticket seller was an unusual experience. Hopefully, next time I’ll have the opportunity to witness the complete brick-making process!

Jinliangxing Brick Factory

Opening Hours: 0900-1700, closed on Monday and Tuesday.
No. 17-17, Shanjiau, Yuanli Township, Miaoli
07|Dongli Jiafeng

With over 130 years of history, Dongli Jiafeng is a well-preserved traditional three-section compound that has become a popular tourist attraction, largely due to its frequent use as a filming location for period dramas.

While touring the ancient house, the occasional scent of baked goods fills the air. As I ventured further inside, I discovered a bakery. Dongli Jiafeng’s handmade meat pies have even won the 2023 Miaoli Top Ten Souvenir Award and the National Top 100 Souvenir Award.

What surprised me most was another aspect of Dongli Jiafeng. In addition to being a popular filming location for period dramas, it also serves as Taiwan’s largest rehabilitation center for ex-convicts. For over 20 years, the founder has led a team of volunteers who rent farmland to cultivate figs, pears, oranges, and vegetables. Dongli Jiafeng has become a crucial force in assisting ex-convicts with their reintegration into society.

Dongli Jiafeng

Opening Hours: 0800-1700
No. 8, Yuankeng, Yuanli Township, Miaoli
08|Zhen Fa Hat Shop

Founded in 1922, the century-old "Zhen Fa Hat Shop" stands out with its sky-blue door, providing a vibrant contrast to the weathered facades of the old street in Yuanli.

This combination of traditional and contemporary elements has significantly increased the store's popularity. From classic straw mats and hats to trendy items such as drink holders and micro bags, the store highlights its creativity and commitment to preserving traditional craftsmanship while adapting to modern trends.

Zhen Fa Hat Shop

Opening Hours
Weekdays: 1200-1900
Weekends: 1000-1900
Closed on Monday.
No. 159, Tianxia Rd., Yuanli Township, Miaoli
09|SunsuiRice Farm

Some interesting places are discovered by chance, and that’s how I stumbled upon SunsuiRice Farm.

While traveling to Sanyi along County Highway 140, I noticed the SunsuiRice factory situated beside the road. My curiosity prompted me to explore a small alley, and what I encountered was a delightful scene: a modern building with clean, simple lines set against the vibrant green rice fields, with large floor-to-ceiling windows facing the farmland. It instantly evoked my vision of a tranquil retirement life!

SunsuiRice Farm is a platform dedicated to the cultivation of organic rice and the promotion of rural lifestyle aesthetics. Their goal is to raise awareness about organic farming through education and hands-on experiences. During my visit, the staff members were busy preparing for an organic rice experience and a craft workshop the following day. Watching them work with such passion made it clear how deeply committed they are to their cause.

SunsuiRice Farm

Opening Hours: 0900-1630, closed on Monday.
No. 91-5, Yutian, Yuanli Township, Miaoli
◦ Restaurants and Snacks in Yuanli
01|Pin Xiang Noodle Shop

"A local favorite with great flavors, generous portions, and fair prices—no shortcuts taken with their seafood noodle soup!"
"The owner is committed to ensuring that customers never leave hungry, which is why the portions are both substantial and affordable. "
"This is a place where you can enjoy a satisfying meal without the worry of leaving hungry!"
Originally, I intended to grab a quick sandwich, but when I noticed a noodle shop just 50 meters away on Google Maps, which had numerous rave reviews praising the generous owner, I decided to have breakfast there instead.

I ordered a plate of fried noodles and a bowl of pork soup. The portions were generous, and the flavors were comforting and delightful. I’ve heard that their signature dish is a seafood noodle soup. Hopefully, I’ll have the opportunity to visit Yuanli again and try their specialty next time!

Pin Xiang Noodle Shop

Opening Hours: 0630-1300, closed on Monday.
No. 100-3, Wanli Rd., Yuanli Township, Miaoli
◦ Flying Over Taiwan

*All aerial photography operations are conducted within legal airspace. During flight, regulations stipulated by the Civil Aviation Law are strictly followed, maintaining the required distance from buildings and crowds. Zooming and post-production techniques are used to ensure compliance, making the flights fully legal.
*Anyone citing these images and text must provide proper attribution. Unauthorized or illegal use of the images and text is prohibited and may result in legal liability.

◦ Other Areas in Miaoli

➤ Houlong | A Hakka Town with a Sea of Silver Miscanthus

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