Taichung ◦ West District | A Greenway Connecting Taichung’s Culture and Aesthetics | TAIWAN 368-77

by YU-LING

A while ago, I traveled to Taichung for a business trip and happened to stay at a hotel in the West District. In the mornings, I would start my day with a workout at the nearby Civic Square. Whenever I needed a break from work and a chance to catch my breath, I would head to the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts to see an exhibition or take a stroll along Park Lane by CMP. Having visited Taichung so many times, if I had to choose one area to settle down in, this would definitely be my first choice. It strikes just the right balance between green spaces, museums, and shopping districts—close enough to enjoy all the conveniences of the city, yet with plenty of places nearby where I can slow down, take a breath, and simply enjoy a moment of peace.

◦ Taichung Travel Guide

01|Transportation in Taichung

🚄 Taiwan High Speed Rail
🚗 Cross-city Chartered One-day Tour from Taipei
🛵 Taichung Scooter Rental - Taichung Station Pickup
🛵 Taichung Scooter Rental - Taichung High Speed Rail Station Pickup

02|Popular Attractions in Taichung

🎫 Lihpao Land Ticket in Taichung
🎫 National Museum of Natural Science Ticket and Combo Ticket
🎫 Carton King Creative Park Ticket in Taichung
🎫 Basianshan National Forest Recreation Area Ticket
🎫 Lavender Cottage Ticket in Taichung
🎫 Dasyueshan National Forest Recreation Area Ticket in Taichung

03|Things To Do in Taichung

🚌 Gaomei Wetland, Rainbow Village and Miyahara Day Tour from Taichung
🚌 Sun Moon Lake & Cingjing Farm Day Tour
💆🏻‍♀️ Royal Thai Massage in Taichung

◦ The Past of Taichung West District

The development of Taichung’s West District can be traced back to the Han Chinese settlement and cultivation of the area during the Qing Dynasty. During the Japanese colonial period, the implementation of modern urban planning gradually shaped the district into part of a modern city. Important government offices, including the former Taichung Prefecture Hall, were concentrated in and around the area, laying the foundation for the West District’s future development. After World War II, the city continued to expand, and the farmland of the past gradually gave way to neighborhoods lined with residential buildings, commercial spaces, and office buildings. Having witnessed the city’s transformation through different eras, today’s West District has earned a reputation as a cultural and educational hub, thanks to its rich array of cultural and educational resources.

◦ Attractions in Taichung West District
01|Shen Ji New Village

Shen Ji New Village was originally built as staff housing for the Audit Office of the Taiwan Provincial Government and has a history of nearly fifty years. The old buildings still bear traces of a bygone era, making them well worth taking the time to appreciate. After being revitalized, the village has welcomed a number of creative and independent shops, transforming it into a popular destination among young people and visitors.

After wandering around the village, my personal favorite was Kerkerland, a small shop selling illustrated postcards. What left the deepest impression on me was its “Time Drawer Wall,” with drawers labeled with different years and months. Here, you can send a postcard to your future self, or to a friend or loved one. There is something special about leaving behind a little time capsule with your own hands—as if you were tucking away a surprise, waiting to be discovered someday. I wrote one to myself three years from now. With my goldfish memory, I’ll probably forget all about it before long. When it finally arrives, I imagine I’ll be both surprised and delighted.

Shen Ji New Village

Opening Hours: 1100-2000 
(Shops may have different opening hours.)
Ln. 368, Minsheng Rd., West Dist., Taichung
02|Fantasy Story Green Ray

Less than 400 meters from Shen Ji New Village, the Fantasy Story Green Ray was created by revitalizing 12 former staff housing buildings belonging to the Taiwan Water Corporation that had been left vacant for years. Following the revitalization, the area has welcomed more than a dozen restaurants, cafés, and lifestyle shops. Its overall vibe is quite similar to that of Shen Ji New Village, with old buildings given a fresh new life through creative businesses. One place that caught my attention was Good Cave. On weekday mornings, the Fantasy Story Green Ray is usually fairly quiet, yet this café was surprisingly lively. Not only were all the seats inside taken, but there were also quite a few people waiting outside. Seeing the crowd definitely put it on my list for my next trip to Taichung.

I also highly recommend Xiao Zuo Ocha Zuo, just one street away. I was initially drawn to its Japanese-style signboard, only to discover later that it is actually a tea brand that originated in Dali, Taichung. This time, I tried two teas from their pure tea series: Si Ji Chun and Shizuoka Gyokuro. Both were smooth and easy to drink, without any unpleasant bitterness or heaviness. They also left a subtle, lingering sweetness at the end.

Fantasy Story Green Ray

Opening Hours: 1000-2100
(Shops may have different opening hours.)
No. 2-26, Zhongxing 1st Ln., West Dist., Taichung
03|Taichung Civic Square

When it comes to Taichung, many people have probably heard of Calligraphy Greenway. Designed around the concept of an urban green corridor, this linear park stretches for about 3.6 kilometers, running from the National Museum of Natural Science in the north to the area around the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts in the south. Along the way, it connects several important landmarks, including Civic Square, Park Lane by CMP, and the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts.

The expansive green space across from Park Lane by CMP is Civic Square. Designed as a completely open space without fences, it offers a refreshing sense of freedom. Although the square is surrounded by high-rise buildings, department stores, and busy commercial areas, there are no complicated facilities inside. Instead, it is simply made up of a wide stretch of lawn and large Chinese banyan trees, creating an open and relaxing atmosphere in the middle of the city. Perhaps because of its simplicity, Civic Square has also become a popular pet-friendly space. Watching so many dogs running and playing freely on the grass is truly a heartwarming sight.

Taichung Civic Square

No. 163-1, Gongyi Rd., West Dist., Taichung
04|Park Lane by CMP

The architecture of Park Lane by CMP is quite distinctive. It was the first building in Taiwan to feature a large-scale vertical green wall, with around 120,000 to 150,000 plants covering its exterior. Natural light and eco-friendly concepts are thoughtfully incorporated into the design, allowing the shopping complex to blend seamlessly with the nearby Civic Square and Calligraphy Greenway.

The biggest highlight of Park Lane by CMP is its Eslite flagship store for central Taiwan. In addition to its extensive book section, there are also dedicated children’s and music sections, along with a stationery and lifestyle store spanning more than 300 square meters. As a stationery lover, I could easily spend hours browsing the stationery and checking out the tarot card decks. My wallet was in serious danger by the time I left!

Park Lane by CMP

Opening Hours: 1100-2130
No. 68, Gongyi Rd., West Dist., Taichung
05|National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts

The National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts is Taiwan’s first national-level art museum. The building has three above-ground floors and one basement level, with a large glass curtain wall on the south side that allows natural light to fill the space. Its overall design has a distinctly modern feel. It was only during this visit that I discovered admission to the museum is completely free. What a wonderful surprise!

I came specifically to see Daughter of Nectar (甘露水), a national treasure by Taiwanese sculptor Huang Tu-shui, created in 1919. The work was selected for exhibition at the Imperial Art Exhibition in Japan, but due to political and historical circumstances, it remained in storage for more than half a century before officially becoming part of Taiwan’s national collection in 2021. It is now on permanent display at the museum. Set against a halo of pale blue light, the sculpture emerges from a deep, ocean-like blue-black background. The deliberate distance between the viewer and the sculpture adds to its sense of mystery, making the figure standing proudly within the shell feel even more captivating.

The museum’s exhibitions are thoughtfully curated. Besides Daughter of Nectar, I was also thoroughly impressed by the International Biennial Print Exhibit, which was running until October 18. There was so much to see that I found it surprisingly difficult to leave.

National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts

Opening Hours: 0900-1700, closed on Mondays.
No. 2, Sec. 1, Wuquan W. Rd., West Dist., Taichung
06|National Taiwan Museum of Comics

The National Taiwan Museum of Comics was created by revitalizing the former Taichung Prison Official Residence Complex, originally built during the Japanese colonial period. The site has been divided into several exhibition spaces, each focusing on a different theme, covering everything from the history of Taiwanese comics and classic works to popular IPs.

The first exhibition I visited was 1989, A Sunday Comics Dream. Focusing on Sunday Comics, a weekly magazine first published in 1989, the exhibition looks back at a remarkable period of cultural creativity following the lifting of martial law. The magazine brought together some of Taiwan’s most talented comic artists and editors and is regarded as one of the publications that helped usher in the golden age of Taiwanese comics. Sunday Comics ceased publication in May 1991. I was still a young child at the time and never had the chance to read it, but I have always been fascinated by the distinctive style of Taiwanese manga master Cheng Wen. When I grew older, I even sought out his classic work ABI-SWORD (阿鼻劍) to read. So, seeing a dedicated section on Cheng Wen at the museum this time was especially exciting for me. The exhibition runs only until October 11, so if you’d like to revisit the golden age of Taiwanese comics, be sure to catch it while you can.

Stepping out of the world of comics, the museum’s historic buildings themselves are also worth taking the time to explore. The site was originally the Taichung Prison Official Residence Complex, and it is considered the most well-preserved surviving example of a Japanese colonial-era prison residential complex in Taiwan.

National Taiwan Museum of Comics

Opening Hours: 1000-1800, closed on Mondays.
No. 33, Linsen Rd., West Dist., Taichung
◦ Restaurants and Snacks in Taichung West District
01|Caifeng Rice Cake

Caifeng Rice Cake is named after its owner, Chen Cai-feng. In her early years, she married into a well-known rice cake shop in Taichung. She later decided to start a business of her own and has been serving rice cakes here for more than a decade. I arrived shortly after the shop opened at 6:00 a.m., and there were already plenty of customers inside—a clear indication of just how popular this place is with locals. Unlike the familiar tube-shaped mi gao, the rice cake here is not molded into shape. Instead, freshly steamed glutinous rice is served in a bowl and topped with a generous spoonful of fragrant minced pork sauce. The rice cake is moist and packed with flavor, yet never feels too rich or heavy, making it an excellent choice for breakfast. If you want to kick up the flavor, I highly recommend adding some minced garlic. Rice cake and garlic are simply a match made in heaven!

But setting the star of the show—the rice cake—aside for a moment, my favorite was actually their bonito broth. Just look at that beautiful golden color, and you can tell they spared no expense when it comes to the ingredients. The first sip delivers layers of delicate sweetness and umami from the bonito, followed by a subtle lingering sweetness that stays on the palate. The depth and freshness of the broth, made with quality ingredients, completely won me over.

Caifeng Rice Cake

Opening Hours: 0600-2000
No. 4, Sec. 3, Dongxing Rd., West Dist., Taichung
02|Yutang Chun Braised Pork Rice

Yutang Chun Braised Pork Rice is located on Meicun Road, one of Taichung’s most competitive food districts, where restaurants are constantly vying for diners’ attention. Despite having been open for less than a decade, Yutang Chun has already built up a loyal following and has received recognition several times at the Taiwan Braised Pork Rice Festival. The restaurant specializes in affordable, old-school Taiwanese comfort food, but the setting is surprisingly bright and stylish. Its semi-open kitchen also gives diners a direct view of the cooking process.

Their signature braised pork rice is made with hand-cut cubes of fatty pork belly, skin and all. It is wonderfully rich in collagen and flavor without feeling overly greasy. Mixed with perfectly separate grains of rice, it makes for an incredibly satisfying bowl. The signature braised tofu was another pleasant surprise! Unlike the deep-brown, firm tofu commonly found at Taiwanese eateries, theirs is closer in appearance to braised tofu. It has the substantial, slightly chewy texture of dried tofu on the outside, while the inside is remarkably smooth and tender. Definitely a dish I would recommend ordering.

Yutangchun Braised Pork Rice

Opening Hours: 1130-1430, 1730-2030, closed on Wednesdays.
No. 220, Sec. 1, Meicun Rd., West Dist., Taichung
03|Sixth Market

The Sixth Market is Taiwan’s first traditional market to open inside a department store. Located on the third floor of the Park Lane by CMP shopping center, it is home to more than 60 vendors. In addition to fresh produce, vegetables, and fruit, you’ll also find a wide selection of prepared foods and sweets. Perhaps because it is located inside a department store, the fresh produce here has a slightly more upscale, boutique feel. Surprisingly, not many people come here specifically to do their grocery shopping. Instead, the market attracts plenty of tourists and younger visitors who come to experience the atmosphere of a traditional market in a more modern setting.

That said, there are still plenty of vendors that put a lot of thought into what they offer. Feeling particularly thirsty during my visit, I stopped by Fuming Handmade Natural Aiyu and ordered a lemon aiyu jelly drink. Made by hand from carefully selected natural aiyu seeds and mixed with freshly squeezed lemon juice, it was perfectly sweet and tangy, light and refreshing—a wonderfully cooling treat on a hot day.

SixthMarket

Opening Hours: 1000-2030, closed on Mondays.
3 F., No. 1049, Jianxing Rd., West Dist., Taichung
◦ Flying Over Taiwan

*All aerial photography operations are conducted within legal airspace. During flight, regulations stipulated by the Civil Aviation Law are strictly followed, maintaining the required distance from buildings and crowds. Zooming and post-production techniques are used to ensure compliance, making the flights fully legal.
*Anyone citing these images and text must provide proper attribution. Unauthorized or illegal use of the images and text is prohibited and may result in legal liability.

◦ Other Areas in Taichung

➤ Dadu | Is anyone still “Chasing Success”?
➤ Dongshi | The Season of Tung Blossoms and Firefly Spectacles has Arrived!
➤ Taiping | The Must-See Secret Spot of Bald Cypress

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